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Thread: 16VE + T....Realistic Questions

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Posts: 81-88 of 88
2009-04-22 20:24:59
#81
Originally Posted by Andreas
My question is not flawed because you can get a NS-111 wheel in each of those housings.

So, then with a NS-111 wheel in each of those hosuings which will be most responsive from most to less?


ok there are still heeps of variables such as head flow figures, manifold design etc that will change this. but from my experience with that wheel the t25 t2 .64 will be best, t3 .63, t2 .86, then t3 .82. but it is a hard comparison to make as when going t3 a custom manifold has to be made and this can have just as big, if not bigger impact on spool.

also the ns 111 in the t2 gt30 is not the same wheel as the t3 version.
2009-04-23 06:41:07
#82
Originally Posted by Autech
back ontopic possibly?


Sure.

So, the original question was around how much boost will the 1.6 (stock SR16VE) cope with. I've heard (and could believe) 10-12 PSI is possible. My calculations showed that 10PSI would be a *safe* maximum, but YMMV. So much would depend on final configuration and tuning.

As I use my car for track work as well as daily driver, I'll probably be going with 2 selectable boost maps, one at 7 PSI to get me to the track and one at10 PSI while on track. It's going to be interesting - on a circuit I am typically spending 15 or so minutes at 5-8K RPM. I'm picking I'll probably see some heat issues at 10 PSI, maybe even at 7. Any bets on how long the motor will take this?

I got a call yesterday from my local speed shop that my GT2860RS has arrived (as has my intercooler). This (along with various) with other assorted pieces will be going on the car in the next couple of weeks, if anyone is interested I can post the results here. It won't be on track for a while yet though (probably a couple of months).
2009-04-23 14:41:39
#83
I dont think heat will be an issue, i wil be retaining both thermo fans most likely, and also have a 1inch radiator that i will order from an autech sr20de pulsar. They came with 1 inch factory for this type of circuit use.


I will be going for a 12psi map and a 7psi map also. The 3rd map will probably be a track map, but with a little less ignition timing and a bit more fuel to help cool the inlet charge. This is where i think i will use the VZR n1 inlet manifold. As it has 2 banks for injectors i wil probably plug the set closest to the head and run the furhter back bank as this wil give better atomisation and also help to cool the inlet charge well before it reches the valve seat. One other advatnage may be avoiding a heap of reversion before the valve and reducing the effectiveness of fuel>air saturation. Ive seen engineering documents that highlight how the air reversion actually puts off the spray of the injector, and far more fuel sits on the wall of the inlet runner.

Im not sure how many people have really played with ve setups and bother to go that far into the engineering side of things, but im certainly keen to see how efficently i can generate this package and what i can achieve.
2009-04-24 05:20:02
#84
Originally Posted by Autech
I dont think heat will be an issue, i wil be retaining both thermo fans most likely, and also have a 1inch radiator that i will order from an autech sr20de pulsar. They came with 1 inch factory for this type of circuit use.


I will be going for a 12psi map and a 7psi map also. The 3rd map will probably be a track map, but with a little less ignition timing and a bit more fuel to help cool the inlet charge. This is where i think i will use the VZR n1 inlet manifold. As it has 2 banks for injectors i wil probably plug the set closest to the head and run the furhter back bank as this wil give better atomisation and also help to cool the inlet charge well before it reches the valve seat. One other advatnage may be avoiding a heap of reversion before the valve and reducing the effectiveness of fuel>air saturation. Ive seen engineering documents that highlight how the air reversion actually puts off the spray of the injector, and far more fuel sits on the wall of the inlet runner.

Im not sure how many people have really played with ve setups and bother to go that far into the engineering side of things, but im certainly keen to see how efficently i can generate this package and what i can achieve.


So you would dump the 8 injectors and go for four larger ones? With the N1 manifold you've got the option to use staged injection, will you also use the N1 throttle body? That will give you plenty of flow. The other thing that would be interesting with regard to the injector placement is whether you are better off with choosing one position (in your example further from the head) or using both but at different engine speeds. I know one claim of direct injection (injecting fuel directly into the combustion chamber) is more power for the same amount of fuel. No idea whether that's true but if you have the time and money, playing with staged/sequential injection might give you an advantage of those of us who plan to use only four injectors. Someone who knows more about fuel injection design than me should now step in...

The other thing I was thinking with regard to heat is using an oil cooler since the pistons are cooled via the oil squirters, and lubricating the turbo will add some heat to the oil as well. Probably won't make as big a difference as the bigger radiator though.

Given that the SR16 have a really good rod/stroke ratio, excellent rod angularity and the same diameter piston as the SR20 I'm picking that with the right tuning you'll hold 12PSI no problem and probably see 320whp, maybe more. I'll be really interested to hear where you end up.
2009-04-24 08:59:43
#85
Well, an oil cooler is a must for me anyway!


Well that is true, direct injection is the best, but its just not possible. I think the next best is having them set further back, which will help against reversion and staging of the air.

The n1's all run the injectors at the same time, and there is no nissan ECU i can use that will allow me to do banks of injectors persay. I can go down that path and easily set it up using a MOTEC or the like, but for this setup its just not worth it.

At the end of the day, its stil going to be a 16VE, if i want more power ill just go 2ltr.

IMO 170 or so KW will be fine for the street, and the powerband a 16ve can have in theory will be superior to a regular DET setup i think. Maybe people have other opinions, but im sure open to all suggestions and comments at this satge of the game!
2009-05-29 19:55:08
#86
will you be getting some cam gears dude?
2009-08-30 18:32:49
#87
back from the dead... are you guys going to be using stock sr16ve trannys or p11/b15? i already have the gt28 and sr16ve with aem ems but no sure if i want to take the chance and use my sr16 trans.. or just buy a b15 look for 300hp no more
2009-08-30 22:14:18
#88
Originally Posted by grim
back from the dead... are you guys going to be using stock sr16ve trannys or p11/b15? i already have the gt28 and sr16ve with aem ems but no sure if i want to take the chance and use my sr16 trans.. or just buy a b15 look for 300hp no more


sell the sr16ve gear box for $700 and buy a b14 gear box for $400,
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