Thread: Known cold plugs (NGK BKR7) with removable contact tip?

FYI: I finally found a set of spark plugs that are the right heat range and will work with the COP. Just trying to keep track of part numbers. I had to order them from www.sparkplugs.com which wasn't really a big deal. I will be doing that from now on. Used the SR2009 Convention discount too. =]

Lookin' good.

I've always wondered this:

What would be the likelyhood of running COP without running a full standalone? FWIW, the S13 or S14 was COP, correct? I wonder what makes that ECU so much different than a B13/B14 ECU...

I wouldn't mind running COP and not having to worry about dizzy issues any longer. I'm guessing you'd still have to worry about the CAS...

Sorry that was a little off base, maybe best saved for another thread. I like your responses to everything though, so I thought I'd follow you around and ask you here

Pretty likely. As it stands now, I could probably toss a JDM S13 ECU in my car and it would run just fine (assuming I downgraded my injectors).

(I've re-wired my wiring harness for an S13 AEM EMS unit. Don't ask.)

Oh wait, I don't have a MAF either... Nevermind...

They have four ignition circuits, and the logic turned on to control them. Basically...
The Silvia COP won't fit a FWD valve cover though (too thick and too short) so you'd have to find something else, but that's not too hard.

Yes, you'll still need a CAS, which likely means you'll be using the distributor for that, unless you purchase the 20V CAS which is a stand-alone unit.

No problem.
Flattery will get you everywhere with me.

Okay, so I'd need a 20V cas that would need to be wired into the existing B14 harness, check.

CBR COP's, check.

JDM S13 ECU (OBDI obviously, so stepdown harness needed), Check.

Realtime daughterboard for S13 ECU, check.

Doesn't seem TOO difficult. Thanks for the insight. I'll maul this over while enjoying a much needed beer

CBR COP won't work without some extra circuitry. The ECU is designed to work with passive (3-wire) COP, not active (2-wire) COP. AEM pencil COP and Honda CBR are 2-wire. Nissan OEM are 3-wire. You need 3-wire COP, or you need to turn the 2-wire COP into 3-wire COP with some beefy IGBTs or similar.

The 20V CAS is not necessary. You can re-use the CAS from a typical FWD SR20 engine. The 20V CAS just makes things a little cleaner in the engine bay aesthetically.

Ah, I gotcha. I would still run the 20V CAS because I'm trying to clean up my engine bay as much as possible

I'm having weird ignition issues now that the car is back up and running. The more I think about it, the more it seems to be the copper Bosch spark plugs I got. These just aren't nearly as good of a plug as the NGKs I had before.

I'm going to take neo_510's excellent advice and purchase some Denso Iridium IK22 plugs. They certainly look the park. (They'd better work at $12 a plug!)
I searched all day today at the local stores and couldn't find anything even close so I'll have to order them online as well. Here's hoping they solve my problem.

Edit: Used 15% off Iridium spark plugs code "15clublex".
For future reference "SR20509" is $5 off.

Edit 2: Here are pics of the plugs.

Facebook album permalink (in case the images don't show up in the future).

From my experience most of the earlier BMWs used those plugs without the tips. I can't remember exactly which ones, it's been a while since I touched one of those cars.

I know the NGKs i had last had the removable tip, but ive switched over to (cant remember brand) coppers since then, since waiting for colder iridiums from advance take about 2 days.

Just change them more often now...

I work in a Bosch service center and I wouldn't recommend running those plugs on anything but a bosch management system. The Denso plugs are much better quality. Most euro manufacturers don't even run Bosch plugs, they have switched to NGK