Thread: car feels like it hits a wall at 3500-4000 rpm

6's are fine. 7's are okay too, but you have to close the gap down more.

^^

brk7e right?! i think thats the part number

Correct.

BRK7E's on a small turbo car should be gapped around .030~.035, IIRC. I ran mine at .035. Closed the gap down on the 30r to .028.

6's IIRC you don't need to close the gap down so much, becuase they burn hotter.

oops..... lol

i just looked over the 1st post and saw he does use bkr7e.... sorry

but still its sounds like an ignition issue...

Checked the obd codes today and got a couple. 11 and 76. The CAS and fuel injection system. I think my distributor's junk. That would affect the fuel system correct?

I think you messed up your mechanical cam timing during the cam install. That's also why your CAS is popping a code.

Timing should be: Cyl 1 (closeds to chain) in top dead center > Exhaust gear slot facing 12 o clock. Then 20 chain pins to the slot of the intake camgear which should then face 10:30 (45 degrees to the left.)

If it is even 1 tooth off you'll see right away cause you intake gear slot isnt @ 10:30 = 45'

I'll double check that this week. Thanks.

wow, sounds like you have the exact same build as my car... literally. i have bc cams stage 2, and all that other stuff. my cam's aren't doing that though. im posative that will be your cam timing. but i know i have had lots of issues with my ignition rotor and cap lately too. replaced them both 2x now.

I just had this problem come back again. Coincidentally the first time it happened it was snowing... and it's snowing again. My mods are almost the same except I have a T28 and S4 cams. It ran fine for almost 2 months after the cam swap before this happened. It wouldn't take that long to surface if it was cam timing would it?

i bought a motor once that had bad mechanical timing the first few weeks it was ok but after a while it couldnt go over 5k rpms felt like i had msd while driving