Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: car feels like it hits a wall at 3500-4000 rpm

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 21-30 of 36
2009-02-18 00:20:14
#21
It's not constant though. It happened a week and a half ago and it just happened again today. It only lasts for a day or two and then goes away. I wonder if it might just be a sensor getting wet. If I only go half throttle it doesn't hit a 'limiter' type situation.

It's really weird. I've googled it a bit and it seems to be a very common problem among all different makes of cars. I have yet to find anything with a solution though.
2009-02-18 08:27:07
#22
check the basics cap rotor plugs wires fuel filter make sure no oil in ur plugs or w.e clean your maf intake manifold ect put some 93 octane in the car
2009-02-18 13:55:41
#23
Yeah, cap & rotor is on the list to replace regardless. I haven't checked the plugs yet but I hope thats not it, they're less then 3 months old. I think I checked all the hard stuff first, hopefully it ends up being something stupid and easy.
2009-02-18 17:52:34
#24
Originally Posted by Speculative
I just had this problem come back again. Coincidentally the first time it happened it was snowing... and it's snowing again. My mods are almost the same except I have a T28 and S4 cams. It ran fine for almost 2 months after the cam swap before this happened. It wouldn't take that long to surface if it was cam timing would it?


The issue is condensation, likely in the CAP/Rotor.
2009-02-19 00:38:29
#25
Originally Posted by TeKKiE
The issue is condensation, likely in the CAP/Rotor.


Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. I haven't checked the cap yet. I've checked my TPS and MAF to rule those out. I'm going to replace the cap and rotor tomorrow and hopefully that solves it.
2009-02-22 04:24:25
#26
ME and my buddy checked the mechanical timing today and it seemed dead on. Turned the motor a few times and lined up the black colored links to the mating marks with the crank pulley at zero degrees and tdc. Intake is at 10 and exhaust is at 12 with 20 pins in between the mating marks. Distributor rotor is pointing upward also.

I'm thinking it's not getting enough spark under boost since I got a cam sensor code. I think the next step is to replace the distributor.

Also, is the Walbro 190 lph fuel pump sufficient enough for the mods I have. How much horsepower is the 190 fuel pump capable of?
2009-02-22 07:36:59
#27
um, i think it should be either 19 pins in between the link to link , or 21 pins link to link.

make sure you are exact. Look at the FSM to confirm.

20 for some reason does not sound right. i though it was odd.

just my 2 cents.
2009-02-22 07:43:21
#28
Originally Posted by NX-DET
um, i think it should be either 19 pins in between the link to link , or 21 pins link to link.

make sure you are exact. Look at the FSM to confirm.

20 for some reason does not sound right. i though it was odd.

just my 2 cents.


It is 20 rollers between the dots on the gears.
2009-02-22 13:37:58
#29
Originally Posted by NX-DET
um, i think it should be either 19 pins in between the link to link , or 21 pins link to link.

make sure you are exact. Look at the FSM to confirm.

20 for some reason does not sound right. i though it was odd.

just my 2 cents.


Ya, I double checked with the fsm. That's what I thought at first, then I counted the pins in between the dots and it was 20.
2009-02-22 14:16:32
#30
How is your distributor clocked, in order for the car to even run? Take a pic of it. Is it rotated towards the firewall, or towards the radiator?

a 190lph pump is OK, but I wouldn't plan on keeping it. 255lph would be the minimum that I would run.
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top