Thread: The Great Headstud Thread

Ok about the mainstuds. Doesnt the block itself center the cap or are you talking about left to right centering. If so would you just use the stock main bolts. i know i have never seen really any problems with the stock main bolts but i know many have used arp with no problems at all either.

I was considering using the arp mains but if it can lead to wear i would just rather use the stock main bolts as they are pretty good and the girdled bottom end has already been proven to withstand a great amount of hp. I know some engine builders like to use the arp's so im kinda wondering what to do with that. If i can save the 110 bucks for the main studs and just use new stock oem bolts they are much cheaper and ill definetly feel secure about them at the 500whp target i have set.

About the cylinder distortion, your correct its just like anythingthe lower your torque on something such as a block the less destortion you get. The higher your going to distort the top of the cyliner walls more.

Now mrslappy what studs have you used in your builds and your recommendations about them. Im picking up a set of AEBS head studs (which i was lucky to find as they are a rare item to be had) and i know people have used these with great success. They bottom out in the block and i believe also have the taper at the top as a stop. They were designed specificly for the sr20 unlike the golden eagles for the b16 blocks they could have differences that could affect the amount of threads and their grabbing points so im still kinda scheptical. But since i found the AEBS for a really good price i will go with those.

I have the AEBS also, but I also suggest you get a set of Pulsar mains, alot stronger than the regular DE or T's.

are the gtir bolts or stud. And are they the same size as the de/det's

Im sure greg can get these for me if they are the same.

How have the AEBS been working for you and how are they in person.

^^^^^^

There bolts, and they have to be used with the girdle, they are about 40 bucks. Head is not done yet(i"ll leave it at that),so no response about reliability issues.

of course, i knew they had a girdle but i was planning on using them anyways. Are they just a stronger material or what?

I am one of the guys using the arp redesign studs. I haven't had any issues. I am not a full-race setup, but I couldn't imagine these causing problems. As far as threads go I could have sworn I did some measurements and the stud comes about 1cm away from bottoming out, but all the threads are used. If you look inside the hole you can see that the threads don't even start until about 1.5" from the bottom of the hole, and the top of the hole has no threads...

IF these ever cause me any issues I will go with something else, but I used the old design too and never had a problem.

I wonder if these are failing on high boost setups? I have seen 26psi on my setup and it has a lil over 11K miles on the build. No issues. I won't be able to push more boost than that.

But those golden eagle studs are a neat find. I may have to do those in the future on my next build.

Coheed. May I suggest you retorque your head. This may avert any problems and tell if ARP solved the problem. Use the same torque wrench and settings you used to assemble the motor.

I suppose I could, but I don't think I wanna mess with it. I felt nervous installing them as ARP states to torque them to 105lbft! I was nervous to say the least!

I may do it next time I have the cams out, but I don't think they are going anywhere. I went over them about 4-5 times when assembling the motor to make sure they were all torqued evenly. And I also took out all the machining marks from the block and head before installing them. I believe this has helped.

The only difference between the new studs and the old ones is strength. The old studs were 175K psi, and these ones are 220K psi. The old ones torqued to 80lbft and these ones are 105.

im using the eagles and they work just fine..

^You order the ones of eBay?