Thread: The Great Headstud Thread

Fug it, I'm done. You believe what you want, I am done trying to help people with information. Seriously learn about metallurgy if you are an "engineer" cause you posted alot of bs about steel studs bottoming in aluminum.

Fug it, I'm done. You believe what you want, I am done trying to help people with information. Seriously learn about metallurgy if you are an "engineer" cause you posted alot of bs about steel studs bottoming in aluminum.

true cuz ill be using their main studs as ive heard nothing but good things about the main studs. They look very beefy and they are definetly good material.

and people wonder why I left the old forum....

If your going to start ****ing accusing people of false **** or that they dont ****ing do anything or check anything on their motor then fine, please do so. The fact is that I DO check this **** on my own motors and every motor I build. By what you are saying you have not even seen an ARP stud in person or even in a motor. ARP studs do not bottom out, they dont even go 1/2 way down the bolt hole bore. This is not a ****ing opinion, this is a ****ing fact. Yes I am pissed off because I have proved this **** before numerous times, I have talked to ARP about this problem over the phone personally.

If you check with a TQ plate and a bellhousing bolted to a block with the main caps and girdle installed with stock head bolts, greddy head studs, and ARP studs, the stock and Greddy have almost no cylinder distortion, about .0002-.0004" at most. With the ARP's I have seen .0015-.0018" and ALWAYS AT THE MID BORE POINT.

I DONT CARE WHAT STEEL SHOULD OR SHOULDNT DO OR WHAT YOU THINK ABOUT BLOCK WARPAGE, WHEN YOU APPLY PRESSURE TO A BLOCK SUCH AS BOLTING THE HEAD DOWN, IT DOES DISTORT. THE BLOCK IS DESIGNED TO BE TORQUED AND WARPED IN A SPECIFIC WAY, THAT IS HOW IT IS DESIGNED, AND THAT IS HOW THE BLOCK IS MACHINED AND ALWAYS SHOULD BE.

There are a few sets of the aebs studs left.Ashtonsser......call the guy & he will hook you up.

That's the way of the internet it seems. Don't let it get to you.

You know these motors in a way few people do. It's a real shame you were gone in the first place.

well one thing i will say here is put away a bit of cash for a tunnel bore, the new design has such high torque settings that most sr's i have seen use them need to be tunnel bored. The old ones didnt have this problem



they are doing bottoming? which ones and where?

Dude relax im not hacking into you. You dont have to chuck a hissie fit. FYI im a qualified engineer, and have built many a motor using ARP studs.

We here in Australia have no had a single know or publicised issue with ARP studs. In fact my engine builder here does a lot of DET work and always uses them. Not a single one has failed or caused any problems at all.

At any point did i state, nor intetned to state ARP studs bottom out. So just becuase you've had an issue building a motor doesnt mean you can jump on a high horse and prance around with your anti ARP flag sticking out your arse.

Until ARP redesigns these studs, and issues some official document to include what you have said above no one here is changing their minds. I 100% understand what your saying, and i can see how this can possibly come about. Matter of fact is that yours might be an isolated case - we never have issues here.

Fug it, I'm done. You believe what you want, I am done trying to help people with information. Seriously learn about metallurgy if you are an "engineer" cause you posted alot of bs about steel studs bottoming in aluminum.

The ARP mainstuds do not have the locating notch on the studs to center the main caps which can lead to very fast crankshaft wear.

Autech, I have known "snickers" for a while and he has never used ARP studs in his personal motor from what I know. He has never had any problems with building any motors and neither have I. I showed him the higher amount of distortion that the ARP studs causes many years ago back when ARP studs first came out. They have had 3 revisions of the studs since but they still are trying to "make them better". The 12mm GTiR ARP head studs are different than the std 11mm ones and not just by the thread size. If you have seen these then you should be able to see the difference.

I have not seen the latest revision of the stud myself but the first stud actually had less tensile strength and clamp load than a stock head bolt torqued correctly. The second one was better but none of them had more clamp load than any other head stud out there. Tested and proven.

Also, Being a qualified engineer does not mean you have any skills or solid knowledge on engine design and assembly. If you truly are and engineer and if you really are familiar with these motors then you yourself should know how torque loading will warp and distort the block and how to measure for it. You should also know all the tools needed to do this with. Its pretty simple.

The SR20 blocks are designed so that the head bolts grab all the way from the bottom of the bolt holes as that is where the highest yield strength is in the block, there at the bottom of the cylinders.

Something for you to try. Measure cylinder distortion before and after installing factory head bolts torqued to specs at the correct height, and then put an additional 1" spacer on the bolt and do the same then remeasure.

-Ted