Thread: Need some help!

the top bolt for the distributor should be in the middle of the top slotted hole to help get the motor started. in case it is too advanced or retarded to fire properly.

The car will safely start with the maf and other sensors disconnected. This will help with the process of elmination.

^ So I tried this today and nothing, started cranking wouldn't start so kept cranking then it just stopped. Got a code for the Cam sensor deleted it and kept cranking but won't start.

Got my new chip from Calum, put it in and the car fired right up, idled like crap then died like usual. Then no start after that. Pulled the plugs to let the cylinder dry out again and clean the plugs up a bit, then noticed that the tips of 3 of the plugs have what looks like melted a bit. I duno how this would happen that car has barley ran long enough to even warm up to full operating temp. Anyone have any ideas? I'm about sick of this and about to dump it on a ship if I can find one that will touch it.

Also heard something about coolant sensors. I know on some cars the coolant sensor will cause a no start, but I duno about ours because we have a few different one's right?

Also did a compression test. Battery was a little weak with no charger hooked up and WOT. Came about 150-140 across the board, so it's not a compression issue.

be patient lol didn't come this far to get rid of it.

when you said "started cranking wouldn't start so kept cranking then it just stopped" , do you mean its locking up from so much cranking. make sure you look in the cylinders and make sure there is no gas sitting on top of that piston, because you could be causing damage to motor if its locking up because of to much fuel in the cylinder not burning or exiting.

Have you actually tried like veryquiksss said disconnecting the maf, o2 sensor and throttle sensor?

Would you be able to take pix's and a video of the motor and post to see if we see anything wrong from are view?

Well that's the first time it stopped like that haha, it was kinda weird and that was while I had all that stuff disconnected. And it is getting flooded, and I can't understand why. If you let everything dry out it will start for a second then die, it will not start any other time.

Yeah I'll get some pics today and a video of it.

Have you considered trying a stock ecu with stock injectors and a stock MAF? I know it would be a pain to rewire the maf and unless you have a spare rail, the injectors would be a pain too... but whether it ran that way or not would really help you isolate the issue.

Just make sure those cylinders are clear. lol i can't stress that enough cause it suck to lose a motor over something so dumb.

Try this

Clear the cylinders, clean and put plugs back on.
Pull the fuse on the fuel pump.
Spray ALITTLE BIT starter spray into the brake booster vac.
Plug up the brake booster up.
Try starting it up.
It should run for a few secounds if everthing is ok timing is good and plug are receiving sparks and no major leaks.

By pulling the fuse on fuel pump you are keeping the injectors from spraying fuel and over flooding the cylinders and not locking up the pistons.

I find it strange after the leak down test and checking the injectors that one is not stuck open or bad, that its still flooding the cylinder or cylinders.

The only thing that can cause flooding before or while cranking is
1) injector o rings
2) one or more then one injector is stuck open or bad
3) fuel pressure regulator no good
4) ecu no good

Thats the best idea that i can think of.

putting 259cc injects in the rail.

stock b14 maf.

Stock b14 ecu back in.

FPR is brand new cuz I thought the old one was bad, it changed nothing lol.
Orings brand new and don't leak.
All injectors fired on Pulse and shut off after, so wouldn't this make it none are stuck open or closed?
As far as the ECU I duno.

Could the ignition timing be that out of wack that it wouldn't start? Anyone know how to or if possible to set timing with the car off?

As for the stock stuff the hardest part would be getting the stock injectors in since I have no pintle caps for them lol anyone got a stock highport rail with working injectors?

Ok well worked a bit on it tonight and got some videos which I'll get up today sometime.

First off I pulled my old spark plugs out from the blown motor and put them in the DET and pulled the fuel pump fuse to clear the fuel system out.

Before I get into this I should probabaly mention that I forgot I put that Seafoam crap in my gas tank and intake manifold to try to fix the injectors in the first place. I believe this is where the no start problem began and i just remembered I did this tonight.

Well as soon as i went to start with the fuse out the car fired right up.... No smoke running really high idle, but it was actually running. I figure that seafoam crap was still in the intake manifold so I let it run a bit to clear it out untill it would die. Well 10 mins later it's still running with Zero fuel pressure.... WHAT THE HELL! lol So I decided to shut it off and put the fuel pump fuse back in to see what would happen. At this time I checked the codes to see if anything was coming up which the 02 sensor came up :/

I get the fuse back in starts up again no problem, but running really loopey idle, check the exhaust and black smoke... hmmm I'm getting confused here so I decide to try to check the timing, it's way retarded. Try to rev it a couple times (very hard doesn't want to rev) and unplugg the TPS and it dies... Does this mean I have a bad tps?

After this I unplugg the fuel pump fuse again starts up a little loopey then smoothes out... and continues to idle. No how is it my car is running without the fuel pump? and while I try to rev it it backfires.... haha theres no fuel whats backfiring! lol

I got a few videos that show it running without the fuel and with it, so hopefully this will help you guys help me determine whats wrong.