Thread: Thoughts on a full race motor setup (Turbo Posts)

I'm planning a RWD VET build for the near future, and on the issue of the IM I've already decided that the N1 runners or even stock SR20VE runners will make a very easy custom IM, as you just need to add a plenum facing the right way and possibly some bell mounths.

This is a single scroll vs twin scroll with a cam. Everything else stock. You can see this motor crosses 200whp at 4300rpm or so. With my exhaust disconnected I hit 200whp at 4100rpm with a log manifold. I would say my powerband is more desireable than this gt3071r. I will be doing a divided .78 housing on this 30r with a good manifold design and hopefully get over 500whp.

Coheed this graph is not relevant.

What motor is this?

That looks like a .82 housing dyno. if that is a .63 turbine housing then they are doing something wrong or their intercooler piping is too large. A .63 GT3071R will make 300lb ft TQ before 4000rpm. Depending on the boost they are running that does seem a little low. I will search through my dyno charts and find a few .63 GT3071R and a divided .82 housing comparison. Again most of the time it comes down to the right parts being used with each other and tuning.

A log manifold will make more boost early because of the turbo being closer to the engine itself. The exhaust gasses are still expanding and the hottest gasses are within 6" of the head and you get very fast spool that way.

-Ted

Very good thread and it seems that Ted has been doing right setups per se. I am content with a "normal" setup but the the right setup will always win cause of efficiency.

With my CAPT. REV project I have been able to come across very intellectual people, reading books can give you a good foundation but learning from others with experience is your best teacher. Hence, I am working towards a efficient setup.

I totally agree with what Ted has been saying. Managing your heat efficiently will give you great results, of course everything has to be put together the right way. With the CAPT REV build, we theorized that it should make close to 600whp at 15psi with a 2.2L engine. This of course is with a
T04Z, E/L sidewinder, o2 IM and a worked head. These components are the most vital parts you can work on to make sure your engine breathes efficiently and expels efficiently. There are many more variables like cam selection, runner lengths, turbo size...etc.Which I accounted for with my build.Cams still deciding upon but I have a few ideas with the OEM choices which was actually brought into discussion in this thread. Custom cams specs will be done once head is actually finished.

My worked VE head resulted with 397cfm at .550" on a SF1020 and on at SF110 it flowed 350 at .500" converted. Peak numbers is nice and dandy but you want to make sure that it progresses throughout the lift range. At .350-450" my head is flowing in the 300s already so this head flows efficiently on the intake side, on the EX side it flows progressivley as well resulting near the 300 mark. The head is still being worked on, that is why I wont sell it since it is a moreso R&D head that I would like to capitalize on. Diff grinds on valves and seats and porting will be looked at still. Another 20-40 CFM can be had I think so it is very exciting.

Thats gonna be a hell of a setup. For one very efficient and make insane power.

yeah sucks it will never be anymore

damn you for parting out daxx i was looking forward to your results

ashtonsser

here is the degree card for the standard cams



now if you feel safe running on high ex cam at idle you can basically have the high ex on all the time and take out 20 deg of overlap, leaving you with 28 deg which is a nice amount of overlap on a turbo set up. It also means the log will be more efficient and since your goals are quite low, the response of the log manifold could be beneficial to you. There is also the cost benefit since you already have the log

i have not tried this, so i am not talking form first hand experience, but i dont think you would run into oil pressure problems down low with the high ex cam engaged all the time, but if you are worried maybe a gtir oil pump could be used

p11 - 77mm diameter / 11.9mm thick
gtir - 80mm diameter / 14.3mm thick

however maybe mrslappy could shed light here to whether you will run into problems?

so are you saying leave the exhaust cam on at all times and not engage the intake cam. Im kinda lost on that part. Its either that or i can do -10,+10 but i dont know how well that would run with that much change, probably wont have much for a bottom end if i do that.

ok i am saying

leave the ex cam on high lobe all the time

still engage the intake cam as normal

by leaving the ex cam on all the time, you can go -10 +10 and have 0 overlap on your low lobe and 28 deg overlap on your high lobe.

i think this set up will have a lot more midrange for 2 reasons

1) you are not restricted to that crappy 6.6mm lift low ex lobe. Dont know where you are planing to switch cams, but lets just say 5k for arguments sake, there is a good 1300rpm right in the meat of the rev range where i think that 6.6mm lift is going to be a restriction.

2) you wont have as much overlap on high lobes, so you are effectively moving the power curve of the high lobes to the left


If you go -10 +10 you see the problem you are going to run both low lobes right?