Thread: Another boost noob thread.

Here's a link to an SCC test of various EBC's vs a MBC. The only downside they found from the MBC was the lack of adjustability in cabin.

Boost Controllers Comparison - Tech - Sport Compact Car Magazine


And thanks Johnny, you solidified what I'd been thinking about the Calum RT.

You must have missed where they said:

Con: Some boost spiking.

The turbo dodge guys make manual boost controllers that are adjustable inside the car all day long. They also make dual stage or better manual boost controllers. There's a lot you can do with pneumatics. =]

I'm trying not to turn this thread into a MBC vs. EBC discussion.

I have a Tial External wastegate that has a 14.5lb spring. With the boost controller OFF the wastegate opens up just fine. But with the boost controller ON and just running 14.5lbs you can STILL feel a response difference. The boost builds ALL the way before the wastegate opens when the boost controller on. With it off the boost builds to about ten lbs then the wastegate starts opening. Now while thats good for traction in a traction limited car...in my car its faster when teh wastegate is delayed by the boost controller until full boost. More Tq all around and it has a stronger power band. Like I said I will NEVER go back to a manual boost controller and I was one of the guys who used to swear by them because they are so cheap to make!

And I'd like to point out that the grass-roots manual boost controllers were first designed to do exactly what Johnny wangwang describes, and they do it extremely well. In fact they were first used as "quick spool" devices before they were used to raise boost.

I guess well just have to agree to disagree. Cause After having an electric boost controller. To me Manual boost controllers suck!

Alright personal preferences aside, considering that the price for the W11 is still on the table, what do you guys think would be a fair price for it? A 30-40K mile W11, GTiR manifold, T28 with absolutely NO shaft play, no intake manifold, needing a light cylinder hone and new rings. Machine work will be included in price. The owner straight up said he's had it sitting for a while, only really knows a ballpark price for it, and really wants it gone to clear up some shop space. Whaddya guys think?

i paid $200 for my complete w11 minus the turbo. but i did pick up my t25 used and in great condition for $150. motor miles were unknown, but was seemingly in perfect condidtion. although i did get some head work and honing done as well. machine shop prices will vary.

from what you describe, you are buying a cooked motor and paying the guy to machine it for you. call around your local area and find a varying average price on machine work to help aid in your decision.

Didn't you also have significant hook ups though?

He said it was just seized up from sitting in his shop for a year and half with surface rust on the cylinder wall. He said he has his own connections to an out of house machine shop, and he told me to name my price on the machine work which had me raise my eyebrow. I was gonna start at $750 machine work included and see where it goes from there.

You may need a new fuel pump and FPR for a 4 bar injection program, also you will need a clutch