Thread: high idle

I was messing around with tuner pro today and noticed this...I posted this up on the other site...

one final question, I posted a while back that my park neutral switch was bad, I notice in tuner pro that the idle speed adder park/neutral is set at 3187.50rpms. This is about where my car was idleing after I got on it and was sitting at the light, would not idle lower. Is this the reason why?

possibility right?

yes if the idle is set that way through the ecu or it says its set at that through the ecu then, you will have to reset it back down to a normal operating idle

Your car is supposed to have that high idle sometimes example warming up there are other reasons too like when the car is under load (say you get on the throttle). The ECU gives different signals to the IAA depending on what the TPS tells it. If you guys have FSMs it is in there in the EF EC-15 section. The IAA is the AAC valve and the FICD solenoid and has the idle screw on it too, it controls the idle.

The air regulator has air by pass port that opens when the car is cold. This port closes when the car is warmed up. It has a self contained bi metal thing that judges the temp. Also if you O2 is bad or you have vacuum leaks it can make your car have idle problems.

The test in the FSM for the air regulator is to clamp or cut off the air flow on the air regs hose. If you engine speed drops after clamping then you know the problem is with the wires for the air reg. (This wiring problem happens sometimes with motor swaps the wires don't get put back right) It could also be clogged. Voltage to the thing should be 70-80 ohms (I think the horse shoe looking sign is ohms)

To test your O2 if you are having idle hunt try just unplugging it and see if it stops. If it does that is where the problem is. You can also check the voltage, between the outer two wires (not the middle one) resistance should be between 3-1000 ohms. If that doesn't fix it check your injectors by unplugging them one at a time. If you disconnect one and it DOES NOT make the car run worse that is where the problem is. Then move onto your plugs check for black or dirty plugs. The FSM also suggests vacuum leaks again

To check the AAC resistance find the cylinder shaped thing with the connector on it (on the IAA. It should be approx 10 ohms. Also the FSM suggests visual inspection of the plunger part inside for seizing or sticking or a broken spring.

To check the FICD solenoid valve I think you can just test it with a 9v battery but the FSM suggests your car battery. Just tap the terminals with the connector off and listen for the solenoid click. If it does you the solenoid is good. If you still have a problem check the plunger inside this thing for stickn or a busted spring.

I'll check the air reg...only explanation that makes sense besides the park/neutral setting on the ecu and my park/neutral switch being bad, it didn't do this until i started getting a code for that.

Maybe check ECUs harness and make sure it is in good. It is weird that it is an on off thing. But make sure you check the O2 if that thing is bad that is the cause of all your problems

ROFL! I think that may be the best response I have ever seen!

My car began with this problem yesterday. I drove a good 300 miles up to Texas, and the idle is now at around 1500 and won't go down. I have a leak, on the pipe that connects to the brake booster, and my vac was reading 9-11. Now it reads 15 and idle went up. I tried to adjust it with the IACV screw, but it is all the way in.

so you know you have a leak on the brake booster?

when was the last time you cleaned your aac valve? is your pcv valve still good, those can get stuck closed or stuck open

Yes, I discovered the leak a couple of weeks back when I did a pressure test. AAC valve was cleaned 3 months ago, just before puting the motor on the car, and the PCV is working, checked that when I did the pressure test.

had the same problem. Few months ago, I changed my TPS and problem was done