Thread: how well do n/a motors take nitrous ?

all i can say is, my old VE loved 100 nitroues shot,but use it only when necesary,and well idk how gas is there in th US , but here is a crap so i had to use some octane booster like torco

Alright here's the deal...

It's very simple.

You only want to consider dry and direct port and I'll explain it to you the same way Kurt and Wady explained it to me (former technician and VP/GM for NOS before they were bought out).

Here's why:

Nitrous Oxide when bottled is a pressurized gas in liquid form, once introduced to oxygen it rapidly expands back into a gas at the rate of 900-1000 psi (or whatever pressure you run typically 900-1000 is optimal).

Now look at house who's exterior is covered in stucco and note 2 things: rough texture and surface area.

If you were to hold a nitrous bottle and spray the side of your house at 900-1000 psi - nitrous doesn't care, it flows hard with zero resistance.

Now take a water hose ( regardless of what type of attachment is on it) and spray the side of your house.

The water obviously sticks to the side of the house right? Notice how the texture immediately slows down the speed of the water hitting it - regardless of how fast it comes out.

Same thing with a wet kit.

When you measure the location from the nozzle in the intake to the number one cylinder (which is where 75-80% of the nitrous goes on a single fogger set-up) it averages about 3 feet (not counting surface area). When you have a nitrous racing at 900-1000 psi versus fuel at 45 psi (which is a liquid that sticks to and lines in the inside of the plenum) who do you think is gonna win?

Nitrous obviously. This is the number 1 reason for the "nitrous nightmares" you hear of.

The best way to combat this is to augment fuel supply by spiking the pressure via the oem fuel system.

Travel from the fuel injector to the head - about 1 inch (a heck of a lot shorter than 3 feet).

That being said you get lop-sided loads with a single fogger kit and the other cylinders when using a dry kit go a little richer (still a million times better that a single fogger wet).

The best way hands down is a direct port. Each cylinder gets a perfect blend (depending on the tuner of course). Not to mention it feels 100x better.

the only time single fogger wet kits should be used in a hat application (carb set-up) or in a forced induction scenario.

personally you can't beat a direct port. SR's love them.

Stay fresh...

BAHAHAH!! Serious???

Glad I got in this epic fail thread..so many quality lols.

Walker

Lol

What is nitrous?

@ga16eats - DAM! You beat me to it !!!


@sr20newbie445 - 100 shot is a no problem as long as it is done correctly. Back in the early 90's we were doing 100 shots and the engines lasted. The key is doing it correctly. Back in the nine-three the safest option was a JWT ECU w/NOS module and hide the nozzle and solenoid in the intake hose air baffle. 150 shot can be done safely for years too.

You will always hear...



I personally know the that search is not always easy - Luckily we have @Vadim and the other Admins & Mods working on that to make it easier.

Good Luck!

What do you consider to be a na vvl set up? Bes has an n/a motor. Most people have bolt ons

I'll say the same thing I say in every Nitrous thread.

Progressive control, and all the world shall be yours.

screw that banging 150shot out the hole all the way to the end