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Thread: New to N20 need advice.

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Posts: 11-20 of 44
2008-05-11 15:52:35
#11
o btw i have 4 spare engines and i push my setup very hard. if this is your daily driver and only car then retard the timing and ck the ecm codes for a knock sensor code.

the knock sensor will not set the mil on. ecm just stores the code. if you have a knock code then fix it! if not spray the crap outta it .


i have melted 2 pistons from knock sensor probs with stock timing and a 150 shot w a t25

i also melted cyl#4 when i found out the the high port intake will starve cyl #4 of fuel above 160 hp when using tb mounted nosels instead of a fogger set up

the most common prob i have had is lifting the head and melting head gaskets or the block but that is only when i had more than a 200 shot with a t25

with the t3 i have only had to run 150 shot and the head wont lift
2008-05-11 22:50:33
#12
^^dude your insane. But yeah its not my daily drive and I only have 1 spare engine but I rather stay safe and not go thru the headeaches of swapping an engine, I just want to see how the 75 shot w/ s3 cams feel compared to 10psi w/ t28+s3's. I'll have to get the vehicle to get the inspection sticker first as is due next month, once I get it I'll start spraying.

Oh I have another question, I've read here or the other forum that the bottle heater makes the nitrous charge last a lot longer do you guys recommended or what you suggest, I heard stuff like wraping the bottle on a warm towel or get the blanket they sell for the bottle.
2008-05-12 00:29:34
#13
Originally Posted by SGTSR20
^^dude your insane. But yeah its not my daily drive and I only have 1 spare engine but I rather stay safe and not go thru the headeaches of swapping an engine, I just want to see how the 75 shot w/ s3 cams feel compared to 10psi w/ t28+s3's. I'll have to get the vehicle to get the inspection sticker first as is due next month, once I get it I'll start spraying.

Oh I have another question, I've read here or the other forum that the bottle heater makes the nitrous charge last a lot longer do you guys recommended or what you suggest, I heard stuff like wraping the bottle on a warm towel or get the blanket they sell for the bottle.



the bottle heater keeps the bottle warm and pressure consistant. with out one your bottle press will be 3-600 psi instead of the 900 the jets are designed for.

is ambent temp is high enuph the bottle can get above 1200psi and get high enuph to blow the pressure release.

every time you use the nos the bottle temp drops fast like a spray can. lower the bottle temp the lower the pressure

lower bottle pressure = richer air fuel mixture
so with a bottle warmer keeping the temp up your air fuel will be more consistant and bottle will not last as long.
2008-05-12 00:30:02
#14
^^dude your insane

thanks btw
2008-05-12 01:21:51
#15
Originally Posted by 91serturbo
^^dude your insane

thanks btw


Insane doesnt even begin to describe your nitrous fetish
2008-05-12 01:23:36
#16
thanks I really appreciate the good info.
Hmm... Let me see if I got this straigth with:
with bottle warmer = better mixture due to correct pressure (900psi) but N20 will not last long enough due to high pressure,..
oh and please no offense when I said your insane I was refering as you being hardcore melting pistons with 150 shots.
2008-05-12 11:19:43
#17
i know thats why i thanked you
2008-05-12 11:36:32
#18
Originally Posted by jer_760
Insane doesnt even begin to describe your nitrous fetish


you know you love it!
2008-05-12 21:56:10
#19
one more question:
ok, the way this kit activetes the nitrous is; a switch on the throttle body butterfly that activates while on WOT, ok cool I understand how this works BUT here's the question:
At how many RPM's should I fully depress the accelerator????
so that the NOS activates.
3000Rpm? 4000Rpm?
The reason I ask is I know is not good to activate it too early or too late because of the REV CUT cutting fuel supply, making it dangerously lean.
2008-05-13 00:49:23
#20
2k n up is safe 3k is safer. you need oil press high enuph to stop rod bearings from wiping on crank
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