Thread: Direct Port Dry 100 Shot

running rich is bad also one reason it could wash all the oil off your bores witch your rings , pistons and bores love lol and get in your oil thinning it out and making you lose the hyproscapic wedge witch your bearings and journals love lol

Sorry I have not replied in a while, school and work have been kicking my a**. A little update though.... My velocity stacks were shipped yesterday, he did not take any pictures but promised I would be pleased with the work. I have the manifold pieces, im just waiting for the velocity stacks so that I can weld it together with my friends welder.

Just a little info for everyone, to try to clear some things up. A dry, direct port set up also includes the addition of fuel. Obviosly adding nitrous and no fuel is a bad idea, my two options for adding fuel are either my calum R/T ecu, or using a NOS nitrous regulator to bump fuel pressure. I don't think using a safc for nitrous is a good idea considering I'm going for a 100 shot. At that level AFR's need to be exact to avoid detonation, and running too rich, which can turn a 100 shot to a 75 shot on the dyno. The problem with the R/T ecu is that the shops around here are too shady and I don't trust them, I would love to learn how to tune but I dont have the time right now, and $400+ for 2hrs worth of tuning with nitrous and only seeing a gain of 10-15hp with fine tuning is not worth it for me. I also have not heard of many good tuners in the Philly area beside Philly Dyno Works (which doesn't have a dyno any more.)
Going DP wet is the easiest and most common way to make big power on nitrous, I do know this. By doing my build this way im hoping to put a unique quality in this build that is extreamly simple to maintain, and tune. I also have space restrictions inside of the intake manifold so 4 lines, 4 nozzles, and 1 distribution block hidden inside is pushing it according to my measurements. Not to mention its cheaper considering I purchased the parts new.

Well isn't the purpose of pistons rings to seal the combustion chamber, so if they were bad you would be getting blow by regardless and the car would be in not so good shape in the first place. If your rings are fine there is no reason gas should get in your oil unless you fill the cylinders up with fuel and let it sit. Even then I don't think anything would happen unless the rings are bad.

Also has anyone considered any aftermarket solenoids other than nx nos ect. I found variable size solenoids for less than half the price if you were to get it from nos. Would you just have to make sure it will hold the psi? I just need a fuel solenoid and it would make running wet possible for only $40 more. instead of the $160 dry to wet upgrade kit from nos

Regardless of piston ring condition, too much fuel can do as much damage as not enough fuel for those particular reasons.

The piston ring is not an exact seal for the cumbustion chamber. Residual oil does remain on the cylinder wall to protect when the piston is on its up-stroke. So picture scraping a razor(piston ring) against a flat sheet of aluminum(cylinder wall)with no lubrication in between, you will start to either damage the razor or the aluminum.

I have dynotune noids cost me $60. The only other less popular brand that I would trust would be Harris Speed Works. Both are pretty well known and cost 1/2 the price of NOS, NX noids.

i personally would run 370cc inj.

on my first motor i had a nos 100shot direct port set up. i ran 370cc inj.

my jwt ecu has a extra daughter board for the nitrious program. flip the switch the car retards timing, runs a fuel map for nitrious, drops the rev limiter down a bit.

so basically i could cruise on a jwt n/a tune and with the flip of a switch run a nitrious tune, go wot above 2500 rpm and my 100 shot would engage.

i havent had the nitrious set up for years, but my ecu still has the extra daughter board if i ever decide to add nitrious.

stratton.

u got to love nitrous oxide

I like your route. However if you are only doing a 100 shot you can just go with a regular 100 shot via 1 nozzle. I do realize you want to have the nitrous spread into the cylinders evenly. But on a dry shot and adding extra fuel via bumping up the fuel pressure route, single nozzle is better.

If you are upgrading your injectors and have a tune for the nitrous and a separate one for street driving then you are golden.

Vex, I was under the impression that at 100 shot, with a single nozzle, nitrous distribution problems become serious. With the majority of the nitrous flowing to the first 2 cylinders causing extream lean conditions in those chambers, and extrem rich conditions in the others. From what I've read on other forums even if you tune fuel for the first 2 cylinders you still will not get the full 100 shot with the advertized jets, and the other cylinders will run really rich.

Stratton, the only problem I have with a JWT ecu is that its not a "real" tune just a base tune, even with the nitrous module. When I get the calum ecu tuned I will have my "Race Tune"
and then Ill be able to load a street tune when needed because I already have a dedicated laptop with All Data, Tuner Pro RT, and im working on getting consult software soon so I can data log. Hopefully Ill be learning how to tune by then. Keep the suggestions and input coming.

Cool I have an extra set of 370cc's when I went to 50lbs on my turbo car. I think I'm going to run jwt program just like you ran stratton. I hope nitrous is as fun as boost lol it sure is cheaper.

I don't understand how this distrabution box works is it 100 shot X 4 cylinders or is 100 shot / 4 cylinders I have heard both ways.