Thread: WTT: EF Hatch for B13 SE-R or P10

I know its kind of a long shot with this, but I really miss my B13 and cant afford to buy another one. All belts, including timing belt, and water pump were replaced with the swap. Fuse box is relocated inside the car. The alignment is good and the tires have pretty good life left. Car will easily do high 13's-low 14's with timing advance. I am 100% confident in this car mechanically and I know its going to be alive for a long time, but Im just bored with it and I want a car that I can love and not just like. I will be 100% straight forward when it comes to any problems on this car, and at the time this is all I can think of.

Im not looking for a crazy B13 or P10, something clean and bone stock, something thats uglier than sin and boosted, really as long as its a car that isnt going to break down and would be considered an even trade. I will even be willing to throw cash on top depending on the car. Oh, must be manual, I dont know how to drive automatic

1990 Civic hatchback
LS/Vtec
non-lsd B16 cable trannyHasport motor mounts
DC header
I think 2.25" exhaust with Thrush muffler
Integra front brakes
short shifter of sorts
adjustable FPR
Walboro fuel pump
15" Team Dynamic Motorsports
Ebay coilovers
232k on chassis
under 30k on the motor
EK front seats
VAFC
B&M fuel pressure gauge
Comes with another exhaust with thick walled piping and resonator. Would requiring some welding of flanges.

The bad:

*Paint sucks. It was just a very poor quality paint job.
*Weird vibration when driving, I think its the axles going bad. New axles will either be supplied, or will already be in the car.
*Lost motion assembly ticks. Sometimes it ticks a lot, sometimes not at all.
*Burns some oil.
*FPR doesnt adjust down to stock pressure. Sits about 2-3 psi too high.
*Ride quality isnt very good. What do you expect from ebay coilovers though. It doesnt bounce all over the road, just very harsh. I also have lowering springs, but I didnt like how low the car was.
*Tachometer randomly got stuck one day. Speed is 5mph slow, which also randomly changed one day.
*Car had a rats nest of wiring when I got it. I did a temporary fix just so I didnt have any problems, but it would be beneficial to go through and do it up right.
*Doesnt have AC.
*Occasionally starts bogging down on long highway drives. No clue what causes it. Turning the car off and restarting makes it go away, and typically wont come back afterwards.
*Some of the wrapping on the steering wheel has shrunk up, but I also have a woodgrain wheel that will go with the car if wanted.

all i can say is, WTF! I thought my shifter was long.

Haha. The shifter is just some threaded rod screwed on. It goes back to normal length.

car bogs cause the ecu or the v-afc is fuking something up.
no bull****.

Interesting. Any idea what would cause it to only happen occasionally? I want to look into this further.

it happens when your giving it a constant throttle like 50% throttle an you stay on it at the same rpm... usually when your goin 60 mph then when you floor it is lags an bogs..

honestly buddy i never found out what caused it.. but it happend when there was no sunlight an the temp was like 70 degrees on the dot close to high 60's

well now that i think about it... it never happend again but that was after i changed my radiator an how those two would cause that i have no idea.

Thats not what this does. It doesnt seem to be dependent on speed. Cruising at 70-80 is usually 13-15%, and it will start bogging, if you floor it, it corrects itself, but will keep doing it after the throttle has been released. Pedal to the metal, no problems.

v-afc then.. where is the correction on the throttle at? like when does it lower or raise the fuel at what % throttle?

could be faulty distributor cap,plugs or wires. your problem an mine are different i know what your describing though but narrowing it down is the hard part.

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