Thread: p11 transmission have a hard time going in reverse

H ello everybody I have a question concerning 11 transmission that I just installed in my 200sx. I used all hydraulic parts from the P 11 as well.dampener as well.6 puck sprung cm plate and p11 oem flywheel resurfaced. while the car is not on the car shifting gears like butter .once the car is on the reverse is hard to get into I have to constantly pump the clutch pedal .I bleed it out with the two man system and shift's through all the other ges fine.did not touch adjustment rod on clutch master cylinder. while bleeding the system I realize that there was contamination of the fluid so I Bled until I didn't see any more. any info is much appreciated thanks in advance

I have this issue but i'm using the cable in my B14. Only way reverse goes in easy is if i crank the cable super tight at which point the clutch is nearly engaged, otherwise i try a few times and it may go in. Think it may have to do with the fact im not using the p11 shift linkage. I've been living with it for the most part until i source the proper linkage or that member finishes mocking up the new ones.

I if remember wi th the sx, if you put it in third before you put it in reverse, it always shifted fine.direct from neutral much harsher..
Do you know how to check to see if the slave cylinder is engaging the clutch all the way by any chance or if anybody can chime in.if it stops raining, I'll try using the vacuum pump bleeder I have and re bleed the system.i don't know what else it would be.

Try removing dampner? Prob a weak slave?

How much does that slave come out while engaging?didn't try to remove damper yet

Update.got the car running.still having trouble shifting gears.using the p11 linkage .rebled the system.no air..I wonder if i back the neutral switch back a little so it engages a little more maybe? I used the switches from my old clut ch pedal bracket from the b14

Yeah you want the switches threaded only far enough in that the threads to not stick out you want it flush..

Also try adjusting the rod, you want it so you don't have to move the pedal to push the pin thru.

Got you.i readjusted the switches so that they are flush..clutch engages much better. But with the hole lining up from the clutch master, I know I had to slightly tug at it to get the pin to go in.i think the pedal needs to come out to adjust it.unless you can turn the p11 mc rod.i thought you couldn't do it.what are your thoughts?

Not sure on p11, maximas rod appears to be able to turn..

I didn't have an issue getting my clevis back on the lever, it's nearly turned all the way out but good thing it's a push style clevis lol, you can kinda push the rod inward a little an it'll sneak passed the clutch lever

1st loosen the 12mm or 11mm cant recall then use long skinny needle pliers to turn rod ,i also have mine almost all the way out only few threads holding it lol but with bolt nice and tightened, this is on p11 pedal its possible to adjust, so far no regrets on an act extreme pressure plate driven as a daily