P10 6 Speed Swap Guide / Writeup / Notes
Just adding my 2 cents for us P10 chassis guys, since this isn't an official howto/step by step install guide with photos, I didn't want to post in the Driveline-Tech section.
I used these links to help understand and guide me through the swap process:
The Ultimate 6 Speed Swap Thread...Parts/Instructions/Results!!
How to: RS6 6 speed swap guide
Anywho, I had my old pressure plate give out / explode / die (after 4.5 years of track abuse) on my 5 speed and I was fortunate enough to come across a 6 speed P12 setup at a good price. While the setup wasn't 100%, everything SPECIFIC to the P12 was included, everything else I was able to buy off the shelf. While this isn't a full HowTo post, I thought it'd be good to document what works / doesn't work with off the shelf items and what I did to get the 6 speed to bolt into a P10 chassis. I'll assume you have a general idea of the P10 chassis, how things work, what you have to remove to get to specific things, etc. Considering I only had to modify the subframe and master cylinder, I'd say it was a complete success for an "off the shelf" build.
Big thanks to @snickers, @ashtonsser and @Vadim for taking my calls or IM messages trying to track down everything. Knowing what I know now, it probably would have taken me a quarter of the time to complete the project, but hey learning is learning. I can also say that there were no major injuries or blood loss on this project! Just a few scorned egos and the occasional scratch.
Also a big thanks to UMS Tuning and Fathead Fabrication out here in Phoenix, saved my butt more times than I can count with this!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Base Build:
Items used in 6 speed swap:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Caveats / General Information:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steps to remove old trans:
Modification steps for before mounting 6 speed:
Steps for mounting 6 speed:
Steps to completing install:
Start the car and take it for a test drive!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Photos
Engine Complete
Yes I know it needs organization, I'm getting there!
Master Cylinder
Pedals
Reservoir
Shifter
Slave Cylinder and Hydraulics
Subframe
I used these links to help understand and guide me through the swap process:
The Ultimate 6 Speed Swap Thread...Parts/Instructions/Results!!
How to: RS6 6 speed swap guide
Anywho, I had my old pressure plate give out / explode / die (after 4.5 years of track abuse) on my 5 speed and I was fortunate enough to come across a 6 speed P12 setup at a good price. While the setup wasn't 100%, everything SPECIFIC to the P12 was included, everything else I was able to buy off the shelf. While this isn't a full HowTo post, I thought it'd be good to document what works / doesn't work with off the shelf items and what I did to get the 6 speed to bolt into a P10 chassis. I'll assume you have a general idea of the P10 chassis, how things work, what you have to remove to get to specific things, etc. Considering I only had to modify the subframe and master cylinder, I'd say it was a complete success for an "off the shelf" build.
Big thanks to @snickers, @ashtonsser and @Vadim for taking my calls or IM messages trying to track down everything. Knowing what I know now, it probably would have taken me a quarter of the time to complete the project, but hey learning is learning. I can also say that there were no major injuries or blood loss on this project! Just a few scorned egos and the occasional scratch.
Also a big thanks to UMS Tuning and Fathead Fabrication out here in Phoenix, saved my butt more times than I can count with this!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Base Build:
- 1995 Infiniti G20
- SR20VE
- 5 SPEED NON-LSD
- LoCo Performance Motor Mounts
- P10 Crossmember
- Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch (Disc and Pressure Plate)
- Fidanza Flywheel
- Mitsubishi Starter
Items used in 6 speed swap:
- Bolts (click here)
- 2J-Racing Shifter Bushings ($69)
- Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch 225mm [Disc and Pressure Plate] (DF583402, $400)
- GSpec Performance Aluminum Flywheel (12310-6-225, $550)
- LoCo Performance Crossmember Mount
- LoCo Performance Passenger Mount
- Mazworx Motor Mount Kit ($399)
- Mazworx DE/VE Axle Carrier Bracket ($85.99)
- P10 Subframe (Modified)
- P10 Crossmember (Unmodified)
- P10 Wheel Bearings (2x)
- P10 Wheel Bearing Seals (2x)
- P11 Clutch Pedal (Modified) (Tab welded for 3rd bolt hole)
- P11 Master Cylinder
- P11 Master Cylinder Reservoir
- P12 Bellhousing
- P12 Gearing / Stacks
- P12 Shifter (w/ reverse lockout)
- P12 Shifter Cables
- P12 Slave Cylinder
- Redline MT-90 1 Quart Bottle (3x, 2.3 - 2.5 quarts used on a bone dry transmission)
- Russell Performance AN-3 36" Hydraulic Line (1x, 656100, $26)
- Russell Performance AN-3 Adapter into Master Cylinder (1x, 640431, $21)
- Russell Performance AN-3 Banjo into Slave Cylinder (1x, 640491, $16)
- Spec V (2003) Helical LSD (RS6F51)
- Spec V (2003) Drivers Axle (WorldPac, $85)
- Spec V (2003) Passenger Axle (WorldPac, $85)
- Spec V (2003) Vehicle Speed Sensor (RockAuto, $38)
- SR20DE Hitachi Starter (WorldPac, $125)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Caveats / General Information:
- ABS rings on Spec V axles will not work on P10 ABS, since mine is a race car, don't care too much right now
- I went with a 36" Hydraulic line with AN-3 fittings and got rid of the P11 brake line connectors, this meant that if I had to service the line it would be easy, but also moving the line around where ever I needed would be easy
- I would highly recommend replacing wheel bearings and seals
- The Mitsubishi starter WILL NOT WORK, the nose cone is to long. Posts have suggested any SR20 starter will work, and definitely not the case
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steps to remove old trans:
- Remove Crossmember
- Remove Control Arms
- Remove Swaybar
- Drain Transmission
- Remove Axles
- Remove Subframe
- Remove Transmission
Modification steps for before mounting 6 speed:
- Modify/Trim Subframe (see photos)
- Remove Transmission Mount-to-frame
- Install Mazworx Transmission Mount
- Install P11 Clutch Pedal
- Install P11 Master Cylinder
- Replace Wheel Bearings and Seals
- Run Hydraulic Line
Steps for mounting 6 speed:
- Remove Shifter Stack from Gearbox (4 bolts + locking bolt)
- Mount Transmission to Motor (bolt locations click here)
- Mount Transmission to Mazworx Mount
- Install Shifter Stack into Gearbox (4 bolts + locking bolt)
Steps to completing install:
- Install Starter
- Install Mazworx Carrier Bracket
- Install Subframe
- Install Swaybar
- Install Axles
- Install Lower Control Arms
- Install Mazworx Rear Crossmember/Engine/Transmission Bracket
- Install Crossmember
- Drill Front Mount Bolt Hole
- Install Front Mount Bolt
- Fill Transmission
- Rotate both axles to lubricate transmission
- Connect Master Cylinder Hydraulic Line
- Bleed Slave Cylinder
Start the car and take it for a test drive!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Photos
Engine Complete
Yes I know it needs organization, I'm getting there!
Master Cylinder
Pedals
Reservoir
Shifter
Slave Cylinder and Hydraulics
Subframe
Last edited by cavern
on 2015-11-18
at 22-27-12.