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Thread: P10 6 Speed Swap Guide / Writeup / Notes

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2015-09-29 03:45:44
P10 6 Speed Swap Guide / Writeup / Notes
Just adding my 2 cents for us P10 chassis guys, since this isn't an official howto/step by step install guide with photos, I didn't want to post in the Driveline-Tech section.

I used these links to help understand and guide me through the swap process:

The Ultimate 6 Speed Swap Thread...Parts/Instructions/Results!!

How to: RS6 6 speed swap guide

Anywho, I had my old pressure plate give out / explode / die (after 4.5 years of track abuse) on my 5 speed and I was fortunate enough to come across a 6 speed P12 setup at a good price. While the setup wasn't 100%, everything SPECIFIC to the P12 was included, everything else I was able to buy off the shelf. While this isn't a full HowTo post, I thought it'd be good to document what works / doesn't work with off the shelf items and what I did to get the 6 speed to bolt into a P10 chassis. I'll assume you have a general idea of the P10 chassis, how things work, what you have to remove to get to specific things, etc. Considering I only had to modify the subframe and master cylinder, I'd say it was a complete success for an "off the shelf" build.

Big thanks to @snickers, @ashtonsser and @Vadim for taking my calls or IM messages trying to track down everything. Knowing what I know now, it probably would have taken me a quarter of the time to complete the project, but hey learning is learning. I can also say that there were no major injuries or blood loss on this project! Just a few scorned egos and the occasional scratch.

Also a big thanks to UMS Tuning and Fathead Fabrication out here in Phoenix, saved my butt more times than I can count with this!

Base Build:

  • 1995 Infiniti G20
  • SR20VE
  • LoCo Performance Motor Mounts
  • P10 Crossmember
  • Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch (Disc and Pressure Plate)
  • Fidanza Flywheel
  • Mitsubishi Starter

Items used in 6 speed swap:
  • Bolts (click here)
  • 2J-Racing Shifter Bushings ($69)
  • Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch 225mm [Disc and Pressure Plate] (DF583402, $400)
  • GSpec Performance Aluminum Flywheel (12310-6-225, $550)
  • LoCo Performance Crossmember Mount
  • LoCo Performance Passenger Mount
  • Mazworx Motor Mount Kit ($399)
  • Mazworx DE/VE Axle Carrier Bracket ($85.99)
  • P10 Subframe (Modified)
  • P10 Crossmember (Unmodified)
  • P10 Wheel Bearings (2x)
  • P10 Wheel Bearing Seals (2x)
  • P11 Clutch Pedal (Modified) (Tab welded for 3rd bolt hole)
  • P11 Master Cylinder
  • P11 Master Cylinder Reservoir
  • P12 Bellhousing
  • P12 Gearing / Stacks
  • P12 Shifter (w/ reverse lockout)
  • P12 Shifter Cables
  • P12 Slave Cylinder
  • Redline MT-90 1 Quart Bottle (3x, 2.3 - 2.5 quarts used on a bone dry transmission)
  • Russell Performance AN-3 36" Hydraulic Line (1x, 656100, $26)
  • Russell Performance AN-3 Adapter into Master Cylinder (1x, 640431, $21)
  • Russell Performance AN-3 Banjo into Slave Cylinder (1x, 640491, $16)
  • Spec V (2003) Helical LSD (RS6F51)
  • Spec V (2003) Drivers Axle (WorldPac, $85)
  • Spec V (2003) Passenger Axle (WorldPac, $85)
  • Spec V (2003) Vehicle Speed Sensor (RockAuto, $38)
  • SR20DE Hitachi Starter (WorldPac, $125)

Caveats / General Information:
  1. ABS rings on Spec V axles will not work on P10 ABS, since mine is a race car, don't care too much right now
  2. I went with a 36" Hydraulic line with AN-3 fittings and got rid of the P11 brake line connectors, this meant that if I had to service the line it would be easy, but also moving the line around where ever I needed would be easy
  3. I would highly recommend replacing wheel bearings and seals
  4. The Mitsubishi starter WILL NOT WORK, the nose cone is to long. Posts have suggested any SR20 starter will work, and definitely not the case

Steps to remove old trans:
  1. Remove Crossmember
  2. Remove Control Arms
  3. Remove Swaybar
  4. Drain Transmission
  5. Remove Axles
  6. Remove Subframe
  7. Remove Transmission

Modification steps for before mounting 6 speed:
  1. Modify/Trim Subframe (see photos)
  2. Remove Transmission Mount-to-frame
  3. Install Mazworx Transmission Mount
  4. Install P11 Clutch Pedal
  5. Install P11 Master Cylinder
  6. Replace Wheel Bearings and Seals
  7. Run Hydraulic Line

Steps for mounting 6 speed:
  1. Remove Shifter Stack from Gearbox (4 bolts + locking bolt)
  2. Mount Transmission to Motor (bolt locations click here)
  3. Mount Transmission to Mazworx Mount
  4. Install Shifter Stack into Gearbox (4 bolts + locking bolt)

Steps to completing install:
  1. Install Starter
  2. Install Mazworx Carrier Bracket
  3. Install Subframe
  4. Install Swaybar
  5. Install Axles
  6. Install Lower Control Arms
  7. Install Mazworx Rear Crossmember/Engine/Transmission Bracket
  8. Install Crossmember
  9. Drill Front Mount Bolt Hole
  10. Install Front Mount Bolt
  11. Fill Transmission
  12. Rotate both axles to lubricate transmission
  13. Connect Master Cylinder Hydraulic Line
  14. Bleed Slave Cylinder

Start the car and take it for a test drive!


Engine Complete
Yes I know it needs organization, I'm getting there!

Master Cylinder




Slave Cylinder and Hydraulics


Last edited by cavern on 2015-11-18 at 22-27-12.
2015-09-29 14:11:34
That sub-frame is pretty.
2015-09-30 04:40:28
Nice! Something I'm planning on for my p10 someday

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
2015-09-30 15:24:37
Thanks for this thread, Jon. If you have anymore updates, please let us know.
2015-09-30 15:43:05
Originally Posted by Kyle
That sub-frame is pretty.

Totally is, Fathead Fabrication does amazing work.

Originally Posted by P10
Nice! Something I'm planning on for my p10 someday

Since your in town, if you ever do it your more than welcome to swing by and take a look at mine.

Originally Posted by Kyle
Thanks for this thread, Jon. If you have anymore updates, please let us know.

Will do! I have a speed vibration from one of the axles so I'm going to have both checked out, and while its out I'm replacing the wheel bearings (I added that step to the list for others to do since everything will be apart at that time anyway).
2015-10-01 05:38:19
I'll definitely take you up on that when the time comes.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
2015-10-02 19:20:28
I still can't get over how great the subframe turned out
2015-10-05 20:59:52
So just a follow up, my speed vibration was definitely due to the axles. Funny thing, my "new" axle from Worldpac was the issue as it was slightly bent from the get go! Got both axles serviced and a spare rack rebuilt (while the axles are out, I figured why not...).

Everything is back in the car and I'll be putting fluids in tonight and hopefully taking it for a short test drive.

2015-10-06 13:51:53
The feathering on those tires is outstanding.
2015-10-07 14:27:23
Originally Posted by Kyle
The feathering on those tires is outstanding.

These BFG Rivals for being street tires are AMAZING, really good temperature control and plenty of stick for the money. Next up on my to-do is 5 lug conversion, then I'll get some nice rubber .
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