Thread: A few hydro clutch questions and info

So I got around to getting my pedal and cmc installed the other day and I have a few questions. I've read all the threads concerning this topic but there are so many combination that people have used that it does get a little confusing.

B13 sentra
U13 pedal
B15 CMC

So I installed the U13 pedal leaving the spacer ON the firewall. Perfect fit, didn't have to notch the top bracket hole like mentioned by se200 in post #18 in this thread--http://www.sr20-forum.com/sentra-se-r/68039-b13-hydraulic-clutch-conversion-how-thread.html
"I'm running a 94 Altima clutch pedal and master cyl. in my b13 with hydro trans/clutch system. It bolts right in if you enlarge the upper bracket mounting hole"

Picture of the U13 pedal mounted inside B13 with B15 CMC attached.

[img][URL=http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/DaveM247/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150319_174454_zps34b974f8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o765/DaveM247/Mobile%20Uploads/20150319_174454_zps34b974f8.jpg[/img][/URL][/IMG]

I did not adjust the arm on the b15CMC and when i used the bolt and cotter pin to attach it to the U13 pedal this is how it sat. Pretty well flush!



Now my first question is, If you look at the picture below where I've outlined on the left side you can see there is a little more than a 1/4" gap between the pedal and the bracket. Does the pedal need to be flush up against the bracket or will this be ok once I've got the lines together and bleed the system? (My trans is still currently out of the vehicle) You can see on the right there is a little bit of room for adjustment on the CMC but if I use that it will cause the pedal to sit higher than the brake pedal.

[img][URL=http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/DaveM247/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03-20105333_zpse0097eb9.png.html][IMG]http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o765/DaveM247/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03-20105333_zpse0097eb9.png[/img][/URL][/IMG]

So I'm thinking if I need to adjust the CMC to bring the pedal closer to the bracket I can remove the spacer on the fire wall to pull the pedal assembly back down towards the brake pedal. If I do this I will most likely have to notch that upper mounting tab on the pedal to fit properly and will most likely have to thread the studs a bit further on the pedal as the nuts holding it in place on the firewall will most likely bottom out before tightening down fully.

Please let me know what your thoughts are and hopefully this information can clear up some of this swap in a b13 as most write up's poeple have down are in b14's or using a b15 pedal.

Now I have the B15CMC mounted and it seems to be on a bit of angle in the engine bay, will this be ok mounted like this or does it need to be straight up?

[img][URL=http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/DaveM247/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150318_150103_zps6b4c8b07.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o765/DaveM247/Mobile%20Uploads/20150318_150103_zps6b4c8b07.jpg[/img][/URL][/IMG]

Last but not least I have the B15 hardline and soft line going from the CMC to the slave Cylinder but want to clean it up with a braided line. I believe -3 or -4 line (23-25") is what I want but I'm not 100% sure on the fitting sizes.
!0mm banjo and a 10mm inverted flare with a 90 degree fitting? Any recommendation on where I could source these or have a custom line made to fit. I've tried summit but they don't seem to have a 90degree an fitting to the inverted flare -3 and they dont seem to have a 10mm banjo in -4 so I cant seem to get both ends the same size.

Thanks Dave

Dave you need to leave the adjustment alone. That bolt hole is were the clutch switch goes. It sticks a bit out of the hole. The pedal rests on this.

That's what I thought but I dont recall removing or even unplugging the switch from the original pedal assembly. It had been a long day before I started this so maybe I just dont remember. Lol. I'll take a look at the original pedal assembly when I'm home, Thanks evan, Dave

So I got around to looking under the dash there was definitely not a neutral switch attached to the original clutch pedal assembly. There was no switch on the pedal that came out of the car and I couldn't find a plug near the clutch pedal in the car.

My Altima clutch pedal has 2 switches.....

If your car did not have cruise, there there was a bolt to adjust the pedal. The switch would adjust the pedal and deactivate cruise if you pushed the clutch in.

The B15 MC will be at an angle, and you could have air stuck in it. The Maxima MC fits perfect and will work if you use the top of the B15 on it. See here: How To: Hydraulic clutch converstion - SR20 Forum

The 4th generation maxima clutch pedal is a direct bolt in for a b13 hydro conversion, no cutting or welding. The maxima master however does not fit well due to the pinch on the fire wall. The b15 master fits great once you remove the studs on the master and drill the threads out of the holes so it can fit over the maxima clutch pedal studs. The key is to use the maximas clasp( connects the pedal to the master) it is longer than the b15 clasp and is necessary for the correct adjustment. You'll need the switches installed in the pedal to get correct adjustment, plus you run the risk of damaging the master by putting unwanted pressure on the rod fully extended out without having them installed

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks, good read. I thought I found every thread about the hydro swap but somehow missed this one. I have the altima cmc and looked at it to see if I could swap the remote reservoir stuff over and it didn't look like it was going to work I'll have another look tomorrow when I'm working on her. Might end up going that route as I wasnt sure about the angle of the b15 cmc. Thanks Dave