Thread: B15 clutch cable arm conversion problem....video within.

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Inside operation clearly shows not enough movement. You can hear the outside of the case being hit by the arm where it pivots.


Why does this arm from my Non-LSD G20 (P10) not have enough sweep to fully press the throwout bearing into the pressure plate to release the clutch from the flywheel. The pedal would not return and come to a dead stop before I was moving the throwout bearing anywhere important.

The brass bushing was removed.

I checked part numbers and found two part numbers between B13, B14, and P10 M/T chassis'.

If I raise the arm to gain enough sweep, the throwout bearing cannot be attached.

It is not hitting the vent tube at top. The weight was notched to clear the vent tube.


I do not wish to grind away material since I have known the arms to sheer off right at this point and that is not something I am willing to compromise since I never read about this experience before.

Lastly, you can see in this video provided from @Keo there is a larger area of sweep.



If you have any other questions, please ask. I thank you for your time.

UPDATE:
This photo shows the fork. This fork appears to be upside down. Maybe this will solve the problem.......

Did you grind the corner of the arm so it does not hit?

If its hitting that vent tube on top, the you did not grind the arm.

The weight was (previously) notched to clear the vent tube. Thanks @tomas527

So that was your issue?

It is not solved. I thanked him for reminding me to mention the arm weight was already notched.

You hear the dinging? That is the arm "bottoming" out or no longer being capable of providing anymore travel. When this was installed, we could not lash the clutch regardless of adjustments, than shortened it a bunch and ended up breaking the old cable with my arm trying to engage the "clutch" which all I was doing was knocking the outside edge of the arm against the B15 casing.

I retract my statement. That arm definitely looks upside down.

The fork is round the wrong way

Thanks to all who contributed via PM, text, and posts on here.

General consensus seems to be the fork is upside-down and backwards. Once I find the 1/4" racing punch pin I can flip it.

This stupid is easy and cheap so at least it was easy-peasy compared to catastrophic and more costly failures.

Now to get a real diff and change some other things in this box to make it acceptable for future shenanigans.

does not look upside down or backwards to me.

edit: add me to the blind list. f me sideways, looks like i have to redo my nephews trans.