Thread: The Ultimate 6 Speed Swap Thread...Parts/Instructions/Results!!

Guys i did mine yesterday i took my two specv axles and took them to a machine shop were they took out the specv outer cv joint and modify the 27 spindles to 25 so i could use normal b13 cjoint on specv axles and i could keep mine hubs and brakes ..i did try to search for some hybrid axles like coohee did but i had no luck ..i have a p12 20v swap on a b13 engine and tranny 20v

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Sooo, I've got an interesting issue:



I wasn't getting any speed reading on my cluster since I did the swap. I followed the guide, But it obviously didn't work... I wish I had bench tested it before throwing it on the car. I could swear that it felt right installing it though.

Any ideas besides throwing a new one in? I'm just worried that the internal gear ring has taken some damage...

GPS speedo?

Certainly would suck if the gear on the diff was damaged.

Any of you guys getting pretty annoying squeaking while idling/driving and clutch not pressed in? Slightly pressing the clutch makes it stop. Not sure if it's the slave vibrating against the fork or the TOB it self. I just added some axle grease between the slave and the fork, but doesn't seem like that helped.

Also getting a different squeak when pressing the clutch in, not quite sure what to lubricate...

whats brand TOB?

I'm pretty sure OEM, since they don't sell the little clips on their own, I remember paying $60ish for new TOB from the dealer.

I started the car, unbolted the slave cylinder and the noise was gone. Pushing or pulling on the TOB arm didn't make any noise, thus it's not the throwout bearing. I think it's just slave metal hitting the arm metal and squeaking, though Im surprised grease didn't stop it then. I think I'm gonna put some rubber between them and see if that helps.

The squeak when I press the clutch in is more like a crunchy one and only happens when it's cold, probably the TOB just dragging against the input shaft.

EDIT: Took the piston rod out of the slave added grease behind it figured it might be rubbing back there, but still squeaked. Tried to fit one of those rubber hose nipples but they were too long. Took some nitrate glove fingers and put them on the slave's rod that touches the fork, and bam squeak is gone. I wonder why mine is making noise while others are fine...

This Saturday I got fed up with the squeaking while idling and started tearing down the slave cylinder yet again to add rubber someplace else since the gloves didn't last . I unbolted the slave and was trying to clean out the synthetic axle grease. Cleaned old grease out, that I added a few weeks ago, pressed the clutch with my hand slightly to get wipe more of the old grease out, then added some sil-glyde to the part where the piston rod sits.

When I went back to assemble it I couldn't get it in the fork and get the bolts to align, which was surprising, I used a screw driver to push the top to get the slave aligned with the transmission and finally got the bolts in. Started the car and no squeaking! The piston rod was now pretty tightly pressed against the fork thus had no place to vibrate. I am a little worried about clutch preload with this. Now here's the kicker, went to drive the car and stalled it, the clutch engagement point moved WAY up, it releases much higher then before, more typical of a hydro clutch, where before it was like a stretched cable clutch.

Either the new grease helped or pressing the clutch in by hand while it was removed realigned the piston and now it's 100% times better.

Ashton....Do I need to look into doing this?

TDMI sells a hub that fits the stock knuckle and lets you use the spec v axles.