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Thread: How to: RS6 6 speed swap guide

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Posts: 271-280 of 285
2012-12-20 20:48:07
#271
Originally Posted by SE-Rawkus
It seems to be a prevalent problem as your swap isn't the only one experiencing this same issue.


Who else is having this issue? Any B13s having this issue or just B14? I haven't seen any other threads/posts regarding this issue.
2012-12-20 20:59:07
#272
yeah this is the first ive heard of it
Last edited by unijabnx2000 on 2012-12-20 at 20-59-17.
2012-12-21 03:30:47
#273
You could strap it onto a dyno and row though the gears and see how much movement your getting.
2012-12-21 03:33:18
#274
Originally Posted by 1fastser
Originally Posted by SE-Rawkus
It seems to be a prevalent problem as your swap isn't the only one experiencing this same issue.


Who else is having this issue? Any B13s having this issue or just B14? I haven't seen any other threads/posts regarding this issue.


Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
yeah this is the first ive heard of it

Disregard my comment. I thought I saw someone post of this same issue, but I was wrong. Looks like @1fastser is the only reported occurrence.
2012-12-22 14:11:29
#275
Originally Posted by 1fastser
I feel sure it's a mount issue...front or rear. I've got the JWT solid mounts on my B13...I think I'm gonna swap them over and see if that will work.


I confirmed this. The front poly mount is totally melted due to how close it is to the custom manifold. I plan on swapping in my JWT dogbone (when I locate it! ) with some added heat wrap protection. I don't believe a poly mount will work w/o melting in the dogbone. Hopefully, the JWT rubber has a much higher melting point ...anybody know those melting points - poly v. solid rubber?

I may be forced to run a solid dogbone vibrator...can also get the manifold/dp swain coated in some white lightening which I was debating doing on this car too anyways.

The rear mount looks fine however the slop from the front dogbone AND a noticeable amount from the bushings in the crossmember, I was able to move the engine more than an inch! Glad I bought the aluminum/delrin crossmember bushing combo from Charlie (UNISA JECS)...will also help.
2012-12-22 14:25:07
#276
Yeah, definitely need a mount. You can get something like I got cheap from ebay. Works great, cheap, and as solid as your going to get. My motor doesnt go anywhere as you can see in the dyno vids.
2013-04-18 13:09:55
#277
After swapping all of the gears in, getting all of the check balls and plugs in the bell housing, how easily should I be able to to move the shift forks? It was fairly easy to switch gears before I put in the 14mm plug, spring, long check ball tube and check ball, now it takes a good amount of force. Just not sure if I that's normal .

EDIT: Put it all together and was able to shift it fairly easily with the shift forks, thus I think all is well.
Last edited by Vadim on 2013-04-19 at 00-13-22.
2013-04-20 19:21:17
#278
I tried searching but where is the write up on what size bolts to purchase from Allen's fasteners? I can't seem to find it anymore ??? Thanks
2013-04-21 04:22:55
#279
Originally Posted by marksr20
I tried searching but where is the write up on what size bolts to purchase from Allen's fasteners? I can't seem to find it anymore ??? Thanks


It's in this thread: http://www.sr20-forum.com/howto-s/64081-ultimate-6-speed-swap-thread-parts-instructions-results.html
2013-06-25 06:32:54
#280
Anyone ever had an issue with clutch clearances with a ka24de act clutch and rs6?
http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/68366-gtir-sr20det-rs6-ka24de-clutch-grinding-into-bellhousing.html#post914335
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