Thread: How to: RS6 6 speed swap guide

Frank or Tad, they both know about the project. So either way.

Ill be purchasing a set of new ones here soon to have them done.

Ill probably keep my hybrid setup on the car until I break an axle. Hasnt happened yet but who knows. When I start getting this car into the low 1.5 60ft thats when it should be interesting to see how strong they hold. These are some massive axles though. Only bad with my set is that the splines at the outer joint and through the hub are the smallest and weakest points. So we will see. Preloading hard FTW.

But so far my hybrid set has held up to a 1.58, a 1.61, and 1.64 60ft. So not bad.

Are the Spec V axle beefier than the stockers?

Yeah by far. Just make sure to get an 04-06 set that way you have the newest ones. They also carry the large spline throughout the passenger side axle. I believe its something like a 41 or 44 spline axle, it stays the same size as the actual shaft which is huge in comparison to the b13 axles.

The driver side though, it carries the same size inner and outer cv spline size as the b13/b14 axles. So technically the only thing that would make it stronger is if they used a better material compared to back in the early 90's which im sure they have. But your passenger side is your main drive axle and is usually the one that breaks on launches. The driver side is the lsd side even though it still has to take tremendous abuse on launches the first hit of power to the wheels goes to the passenger axle first. This is why preloading is soo very important.

But yes, you will see right away the size difference next to a b13 axle. The spec axle looks about the size of a DSS 5.9 honda upgrade axle and if im not mistaken the outer joints both use a 36mm nut and are similarly sized. So they should handle quite a bit of power and abuse in stock form.

Only difference with the dss 5.9's is the shafts are made from Chromoly as well as their custom outer joints.

Any suggestions on finding a new clutch slave cylinder? Also are there any other options maybe a different make/model car with a close fitment? Maybe a little modification to make it work

LOL, I hate to use rtv its messy, I think I have a little arthritis in my hands they hurt all day long and are incredibly stiff in the morning and its hard for me to squeeze the rtv out of the tube so what you see is what you get its not pretty but it will have to fall under "is it functional" catagory. So if it does not leak then its functional

I'm sure it'll have time to cure since the swap is a little more involved than resealing an oil pan...but I bought a used motor many years ago where the complaint was "it would slowly start to overheat..." It turns out, way too much pooky was used when resealing the bottom oil pan and more importantly, it wasn't allowed to properly cure...and when it was ran w/o curing, it heated up and thinned out and was strewn all thru the block like thick hair. I pulled a brillo-pad looking clump from the sump. It was a dump...like it came from a rump. Sry, couldn't resist...now back on topic.

So I think I've made up my mind and I'm going with the spec clutch stage 3+





I think I saw somewhere that the gtir slave is the same....

The gtir and p12 cylinders are the same but according to the thread below(notably post #373 and #377) it state that the

95-99 Maxima slave cylinder works also

http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/23057-mazworx-got-some-fwd-love-19.html#post332521

I have confirmed from a customer who bought the Max slave cylinder 2 years ago that it works just fine. Keep in mind it is more expensive than the JDM correct ones i'm selling. But when I'm out and get the correct ones anymore, I'll sell the Maxima ones.