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Thread: HOW TO GET A B13 to hook

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Posts: 41-50 of 77
2010-11-19 16:54:45
#41
Then they are either old and dried up or you dont have the pressure low enough. That was the case on the 24.5X8X13 M/T's i was using. They were old, dried up, and down past the wear indicator and the lower the pressure i had them the better they hooked but would still spin through most of 3rd gear. It wasnt because they were not large enough, it was the fact they did not have any sticky left on them.

i went with the 25X8.9X13 m&h's that were almost new and they hooked like no other once i dropped the pressure below 10psi.

On the 24.5's you still need to have the pressure between 8-9 psi for them to really hook and they should be in good condition. There are hondas out there going 8's on 24.5X8X13 m/t's so they can grip when properly set.
2010-11-19 17:35:03
#42
They are brand new 4 pases on them. running 8psi in them
2010-11-19 19:29:25
#43
hmmm, Are you doing a decent enough burnout to heat them up. Its just strange. There are a lot of variables that can affect them.

Like the first pass i did on the 25X8.9X13 m&h's i had them at about 11-12psi and did an alright but not decent burnout and spun the crap out of them partial throttling 1st gear to see how the track was gonna grip and then full throttle 2nd and 3rd and just spun like crazy. As soon as i put them down to 8psi, it was a night and day difference.

Like they said, you might need to look at your camber adjustment. I have my front raised up quite a bit to clear the 25" slicks so my camber is pretty good. Again also suspension is a big key factor. You shouldnt be spinning those 24.5's that bad. maybe try 7.5 psi, get your camber and alignment good to go so that you have a nice solid contact patch, heat the hell out of them if your clutch will take it. ( I know before with my ACT clutch i couldnt even do a nice 2nd gear burnout because the clutch would slip and then just slip during the launch) Twin disk made all the difference. Nice long 2nd gear burnout and then launch the crap out of it. Hopefully the track is decently prepped.
2010-11-19 19:54:53
#44
Originally Posted by jus-det-luv
They are brand new 4 pases on them. running 8psi in them


Im also running the 24" slicks at 8psi with the same spinning issue.
They are warmed up good before runs to.
2010-11-19 20:31:57
#45
Originally Posted by jus-det-luv
They are brand new 4 pases on them. running 8psi in them


They may be brand new to you and only have 4 passes, but you should check the manufactured date. They may have been sitting in the store you bought them from for a long time and it depends on the conditions they were stored in also...
2010-11-19 20:51:19
#46
I'll just spray more hahahha. Plus I got em for 60 bucks off a buddy tht owed me and he did 3 passes on em. But then again it is winter.... 600whp maybe??
2010-11-19 22:02:18
#47
Originally Posted by jus-det-luv
OK guys the car makes 603whp. i can see that i have some camber problems
the other thing is it only trap 132 mph i wonder if i need more rpm.
GIO your car went 11.5 with drag radial tires and the best i got was 11.2 i know with power i should be in the be in the tens at 140 plus so tell me the secret to get this thing to hook.


To be honest, if you watch the vids of the car at the track you can hear it's just foot work, 1.9and 2.0 Is all I do 60ft. Once the car is rolling I turn up the boost in third and fourth gear. First and second the car only sees 10psi. My 1/8 times range 7.3-7.4.

I say just take it to the track and feel for what the car is doing and think of ideas to improve your hook(that's what I do) without spending money,my. Suspension consist of 202,000 mile suspension bushings Kyb shocks e-bay coilovers (horrible), and a suspension technique swaybar.
what is your tq looking like and where does it hit hard, I would launch just below it to give the tires some time to hook, for example my tq hits hard when my vvl kicks in at around 4700 rpm's and I launch my car at 4000 rpm's with the clutch loaded (street disk/hd pp).
2010-11-20 01:03:24
#48
I personally would try going with a wider tire which means you would have to step up to a 26....jus my 0.02 tho.. Do your slick's have tube's in them..how much tire presure are you running? Ive also heard of some honda guy's running toggle switches with two different timimg map's, one map for launching the car with low boost + retaded timing, and the other for after 2nd gear, high boost advance timing ...Then again most all of them are running full standalone's
2010-11-20 20:29:01
#49
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Yeah, definitely. The rear needs to be as stiff as possible.


Not true, you need the rear to give a little. You want it stiff, but not too stiff.
If the rear is too stiff it will act like a pivot point and unload the front tires.

YouTube - Chris Miller 8.3@178 at WCF

Check out this video. He has his suspension working.
The front end barely lifts, the rear barely squats.

He's pulling 1.4 60fts without a wheelie bar.
2010-11-20 21:38:47
#50
That suspension is pretty dang stiff. The suspension doesnt seem like its squatting much, The front end pops up and slouches down because the low psi in the slicks which makes it looks like the back is dipping but if you look at the wheel gap between the quarter and tire there is no visible crouching in the suspension. The back bumper dips because the front is raising up probably a good 1 1/2 to 2 inches when he launches and the slicks actually expand. During shifts the front dips making it look like the back is raising because of the give in the slicks. then when in the next gear the front pops back up making the back look like its dipping.

Ive read a lot of Chris millers posts and he said the majority of the time was spent playing with camber settings and front suspension settings to get the 60 ft's he gets.
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