Thread: HOW TO GET A B13 to hook

Yes, the front will be in extension while rear will be under compression.

Only the front.

Dudeman

Yah only the front in droop. Simulates the same conditions you'll have during a launch and you want flat contact patches then. While doing the alignment make sure the slicks are on and inflated to the same pressure you'll race with.

That's what I figured. Makes a pretty big difference doesn't it? I haven't decided if I want to make a dedicated drag car or twisties car. I enjoy both!

What about fender braces, front traction bars, roll cages, seam welding etc..

Yes it makes a huge difference. Obviously that type of alignment is going to be horrible for the street or any track work.

Of your list, the traction bars are the only thing that will help you go faster really (at the strip), and that's only if you have wheel hop to begin with.

Interesting. Well I drive my B13 quite a bit (when it's not broken), but I already have a fair amount of negative camber all the way around (not ridiculous but to help with cornering). The negative up front should have it closer to zero camber at full droop correct?

what about those new controle arm from overkill.
keep some of the flexing out of the controle arms.

Yes. You're right.

But for reference, I believe when most FWD cars are aligned for the strip this way they end up with about -10 degrees camber or more at rest. Your -1 or -2 or -3 degrees will help a little, but when you go all out you've got an alignment fit for the strip and nothing else.

If wheel hop is your problem, or CV joint binding (because you're too low), then they could help a little. Otherwise they wouldn't be in my consideration for hunting down quick 60 foot times.

Jack up the rear and throw in some really stiff rear springs.

i got stif springs 1000lb