Thread: Marsh Tuning and Morfius Performance

Admittedly to get a true 3" pipe to the OEM flange is nearly impossible without the correct hardware and some 'creative' tool work around the bolt holes. It can be done with allen head cap screws though. Lesser 'fabricators' have done it, but the reasoning behind why it steps like that does make sense as it makes the hardware part much easier to install.


Now I can understand that the downpipe 'works' but again...you've got full stainless from the 'cat' back, why not just run it further up front, especially on the bend/elbow upwards...the part that sees the most 'abuse' persay. YIKES.


As stated above, the turbo inlet doesn't get any pressure, and in that situation even I do similar unless specified.

The part that gets me, is that inlet/intake to the turbo. Sure it works, but that's lazy fab work there. Why pie/angle cut and slam it together like thta is beyond me

i've seen backyard builds 1000x better than this. does the guy that built this car have any clue on how to do anything? this sucks shawn you trusted these guys to do the right thing and this is one of the shittest installs i've ever seen, esp after you spend all that money for what should have been a great build. they should give you every dollar you spent back and close that shit shop up

You might want to make something to cover up that hole in the bellhousing where the crank angle sensor was.

Is that rust/oxidation around those welds for the turbo intake?

Also, that downpipe looks fairly used with incorrect crush bends. It works, but no thought fit/finish. A simple cleanup and coat would have done wonders!

Appreciate your eyes and expertise Cody.


Justin is "one of the few guys" that Mark would "trust to work on his own car." That would be worth a laugh if it wasn't so tragic.


I considered both Mark and Jamie good friends of mine. Good people. Known them for years. Yada, yada.


For all his posturing and bluster, Justin The Cunt has not shown back up. Just under 60 hours of his outrageously shitty effort went into my "build."

Mark thinks this is all my fault.

At this point, I'd be happy if Jamie gets: a) part of my "Correction List" knocked out, and b) a no-bullshit, proper, professional tune. No stuttering, bouncing idle, pig-rich under boost, running like ass nonsense.


I *thought* I sent my car to the Nissan Specialists that would notice and fix issues just like this along the way.

Thank you sir, I'll add it to my master list.



I'm not sure if I want to take more photos of my car. The more pics I post, the more work is required to sort it out. .......

Yes, it is rust/oxidation on the intake pipe.

The downpipe is/was used. I don't like the crush bends, nor that wonky connection at the J-pipe. It will have to work for now.

Yes. The a) downpipe, b) radiator brackets, and c) waste-gate could have all been treated for rust and painted or coated appropriately.




EDIT:

The original motor had not been out of the car for 22 years. I asked Mark to clean/detail the bay while the engine was out. Tape/mask it off appropriately, spray with Simple Green (whatever), hose it down. Then re-install (or, as it turned out, install) the motor. It never happened. Same 22-years of dirt and grime.

Figured. I have a sneeky feeling the welds were not back purged which mean they all are liable to rust, oxidation and sugaring......


More in the #what-in-the-absolute-fuck-were-they-thinking category if so........



Again, I want to emphasize my point: the devil is in the details

I'm breaking issues and fixes down, so that both Jamie and I can get a handle on what needs to be done, what could be done, what issues are operation critical, and which are aesthetic.

Jamie can then commit to what he deems appropriate, I'll handle the rest.


Prior To Jamie's Arrival

1. AC fixed. Including: new compressor, expansion valve, drier, belt. Cannot tune with no AC. Ordered 10/14.

2. Replacement Spal AC fan installed with sticky-back, high-heat, reflective material on the back cover. Arrived.

3. OEM CV axle boot. Ordered 10/14.

4. Temp Sender to VDO gauge replaced with correct unit. Arrived.

5. Small bracket fabricated to hold AC low pressure line in place and safely away from the turbo/exhaust. Body shop.

6. Cover AC line with hi-temp heat reflective protection. Ordered 10/13.

6. Turbo blanket installed. Thermo-Tec, made in the USA. 'Merica. Arrived.

7. Wrap J-pipe and downpipe. Thermo-Tec 1" wrap and spray goop. SS cable ties. Ordered 10/13.

8. Bang out oil pan, change oil. Oil/filter/drain-plug crush washer/grey gasket maker all in my shop. Arrived.

9. OEM GTiR manifold heat shield in my shed. Cleanup and hi-temp coat, then install. Arrived.



Jamie On Site.

1. Tune the car. Fix whatever is wrong with the ECU/tune/Nismotronic. This is mission critical.

2. PCV system installed. I'm just gonna drive the car home from the (AC, etc...) body-shop and park it in my work-shop till Jamie arrives.

3. Hose pushing on lower IC piping getting bent too far/collapsing. I *think* that upper hose passenger side is OK and does not appear like it will collapse.

4. Coupler on intake, get the correct 2.5-3" (2.5-2.75"?), 3" long, black Vibrant coupler.

5. Remove extraneous hose(s) in bay.

6. Remove horn/wire (entire alarm?) from car.

7. Battery tie down with correct length clamping posts. Shawn ordered 10/13.

8. Bolts aimed at radiator to be trimmed. (Need to take a pic, forgot about this one.)

9. Block off plate for crank angle sensor hole.

10. Down pipe replacement.


I *think* the following are all Aesthetics.

1. Radiator hoses to black, OEM rubber, with t-bolt clamps. Ordered 10/14.

2. Trim extraneous tab off Forge brake fluid catch tank. Possibly have body shop (AC guys) trim and polish appropriately.

3. Cusco strut bar to be sold. Stillen FSTB purchased. Swap them. Ordered 10/13.

4. Radiator brackets removed, treated for rust, cleaned up, painted black. Or simply replaced. Ordered 10/14.

5. Brass plumbing (Turbonetics my ass) fittings. They are unanimously considered both cheap and ugly, but we determined they are functionally OK, correct?

6. Forge wastegate.

I do recall this being a little bit of a pain to get right on my car. If I remember correctly, I sourced a relatively rarely used (but still easy enough to find) 2.5" to 2.75" coupler which worked perfectly. I believe what you have on there right now is already a 2.5" to 3" coupler. As you've noticed, the 3" part is too big.

Whatever you're looking for in a reducer, you should be able to find here if you'd like: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/intake-pipe-reducer/

Edit: Take a few measurements just to be sure you're on the right track.
And I found one from Vibrant if you prefer them: http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1022_1073_1141_1170&products_id=721

Do not use silicone hoses to carry coolant. They are almost impossible to clamp without leaks, and silicone is porous to water vapor so you will lose water as the months go by. Get OEM or equivalent natural rubber hoses. I can't stress enough how obnoxious silicone coolant hoses are.