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Thread: Marsh Tuning and Morfius Performance

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Posts: 211-220 of 329
2015-10-05 16:22:11
#211
Originally Posted by Boostlee
FORGE GTi-R adjustable wastegate
Yep, they have this part on their page because I had them make one for me. Gave them all the dimensions they needed to assemble it.
Love mine. I went with it after my long used GTi-R wastegate actuator ripped the diaphragm.

Not saying something like this should have shown up on Shawn's car. But I would recommend it to Shawn if he's looking to replace/upgrade. It is a rebuildable piston design. No more worry of failed diaphragms. It also has two ports, like an external wastegate for more boost control options. Being able to pick your base spring pressure is also lovely.

It is narrower than the stock actuator, so you can reuse your little heat shield. My used heat shield still looked great, but you might want to hit yours with a wire brush and some high temp paint.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2015-10-05 at 16-35-52.
2015-10-05 17:28:27
#212
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Originally Posted by Boostlee
FORGE GTi-R adjustable wastegate
Yep, they have this part on their page because I had them make one for me. Gave them all the dimensions they needed to assemble it.
Love mine. I went with it after my long used GTi-R wastegate actuator ripped the diaphragm.

Not saying something like this should have shown up on Shawn's car. But I would recommend it to Shawn if he's looking to replace/upgrade. It is a rebuildable piston design. No more worry of failed diaphragms. It also has two ports, like an external wastegate for more boost control options. Being able to pick your base spring pressure is also lovely.

It is narrower than the stock actuator, so you can reuse your little heat shield. My used heat shield still looked great, but you might want to hit yours with a wire brush and some high temp paint.

I'll put it on my list of items to be replaced. Currently it is operational if aesthetically challenged.

Agreed, a little clean-up work on the OEM piece would have made it much less of an eyesore.

The Forge unit is wonderful, it also matches all my other Forge product which is sweet. Do you know if I require the bent or straight rod design?
2015-10-05 18:34:19
#213
It's nearly if not completely impossible to replace the actuator with the turbo in place. Realize that you're going to have to take it all apart.
2015-10-05 19:08:42
#214
Originally Posted by Shawn
Do you know if I require the bent or straight rod design?
The factory GTi-R setup is a straight rod design. If that's what you have now, that's what you'll want to get to replace it.

More details in my build thread:
129) T28 internal wastegate actuator measurements
142) Forge Motorsport internal wastegate actuator mix-up
148) Forge Motorsport internal wastegate actuator arrives
149) Forge Motorsport wastegate actuator installation


As Chris says, it's no walk in the park to replace while the turbo is on the car, but I managed to do it with a lot of luck and my small, dextrous hands. It required unbolting the exhaust manifold from the head, and the compressor outlet pipe.
Getting that tiny retaining clip on the wastegate flapper arm is the hardest part.

Again, you will want to reuse your current small heat shield or make a new one. So keep that in mind.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2015-10-05 at 19-15-01.
2015-10-05 20:11:34
#215
I would clean up that wastegate shield and reuse it. iirc it's a PITA to find new or used.
2015-10-06 16:12:19
#216
Originally Posted by Chriscar
It's nearly if not completely impossible to replace the actuator with the turbo in place. Realize that you're going to have to take it all apart.

Thanks.

Right now I'm only doing priority items to get the car back on the road and ready for Jamie to come down.

I'll buy myself the Forge unit for Xmas, and stick on my shelf for if/when that factory unit, or anything else in that general vicinity, fails.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
Originally Posted by Shawn
Do you know if I require the bent or straight rod design?
The factory GTi-R setup is a straight rod design. If that's what you have now, that's what you'll want to get to replace it.

More details in my build thread:
129) T28 internal wastegate actuator measurements
142) Forge Motorsport internal wastegate actuator mix-up
148) Forge Motorsport internal wastegate actuator arrives
149) Forge Motorsport wastegate actuator installation


As Chris says, it's no walk in the park to replace while the turbo is on the car, but I managed to do it with a lot of luck and my small, dextrous hands. It required unbolting the exhaust manifold from the head, and the compressor outlet pipe.
Getting that tiny retaining clip on the wastegate flapper arm is the hardest part.

Again, you will want to reuse your current small heat shield or make a new one. So keep that in mind.

Thanks for the info Ben.

And thanks for getting Forge to make another trick part for my ride. How cool.
2015-10-08 13:11:59
#217
Shawn, Sorry to hear about the issues you are having and hope you get them resolved. It sounds like Jamie is stepping up which is what I would have expected from him. Not sure how he has become the most infamous person on this forum, he has more knowledge in one finger than 60% of the members on this forum. Not sure if I could be of any help, but if you need anything let me know.
2015-10-09 01:08:59
#218
ShawnB. Good luck on getting your car sorted exactly as you had hoped. Maybe in the end this will just be another life experience that turned out well and helped to shape (in a positive manner) all of the individuals involved. A lesson learned is a lesson never forgotten.
2015-10-09 01:22:48
#219
I was poking around the car today and thinking about heat control. I don't want anything else melting.

I just bought a OEM GTiR manifold heat shield. Some guy on FB (sigh). I hope he sends it.

I've already got a nice Thermo-Tec turbo blanket to install.

I was under the car trying to figure out if I can wrap my J-pipe while it is on the car. If I have clearance, I may try to wrap the secondary, at least to the flexible coupling.

1" wrap which will be easier to get smooth around the J-pipe.

Amazon.com: Thermo-Tec 11021 1" X 50' Black Graphite Wrap: Automotive

Some spray goop to go with the wrap.

Amazon.com: Thermo-Tec 12001 Black High Heat Coating 11 oz: Automotive

I also needed to assess whether I should use hose clamps or stainless steel zip ties, and what size I'd require.

That covers the manifold, turbo itself, j-pipe and even half or so of the secondary. Pretty sure that combination will significantly lower my underhood temps.


This is where the secondary bolts to the J-pipe. Not sure why this was not done smoother/cleaner or with new parts, although it does seem functional.



As you can see, the secondary is not mandrel bent. I'll measure it tomorrow with calipers, but I *think* that is 3" ID exhaust.



The crush bends are relatively slight.



You can see where the back-half of the exhaust is very well done.





Not sure why they used t-bolt clamps most everywhere else and hose clamps to hold on the air intake pipe.

2015-10-09 02:15:36
#220
hose clamps because there is no boost pressure on the turbo intake

2.5 at the top to meet the jpipe flange and transitions to 3" the rest of the way back
Last edited by morgans432 on 2015-10-09 at 02-21-40.
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