Thread: Anyone tune the Realtime ecu in my area?

I've had the Realtime ecu for a while now and it's time I get off my butt and get it tuned properly. Is there anyone in the Wisconsin/Illinois/Minnesota/Iowa area that KNOWS how to tune the Realtime ecu? Either you have a dyno in your area or if you want to come to Madison, I know of a few around here. I will pay cash for your time, food, gas, whatever. Let me know.
Thanks.

D.J.

Still looking. I'm willing to pay for a day. Name your price.

im in the same boat

Well, I have an appointment Thursday at 10am for some dyno time. I had dude take a look at the Tunerpro RT and the maps and he says he should be able to do it. He also stated that if he can't, he will have someone come in on Friday that will def. be able to do it. I'm feeling pretty good about it. I also told him if he can do it, I'm sure I can get more people in for some tuning.

Good luck, We should go out Fri night.

I'm sorry, your not my type.

I talked to Kyle today. He said he wants to meet up this weekend for a little cruising. We should def. get a group together.

Working with a B13 SR20VE is really straightforward-

-You've only got got two knobs to play with, your fuel map and your timing map, so don't adjust anything else (in the ecu, do adjust your VVL switch points).

-Note that there are two fuel and two timing maps, but their both identical. Keep them this way. The ecu doesn't use the secondary set, but make a habit of copying the primary to the secondary. To do this open both, hit ctrl+a on the primary, click the top left cell on the secondary, then hit ctrl+v. Then hit the 'save' button.

-Note that for both the fuel and timing maps there are two 'maps' that both point to the same address (e.g. for the primary fuel map you've got
'0100 - Primary Fuel Map - No Feedback' &
'0100 - Primary Fuel Map - No Feedback'.

These aren't seperate maps, they both are editing the same table in the bin, its just a different way of looking at it. Think of it like wearing a different pair of glasses.

Why is this? Well, each value in the table is an eight bit number. The most significant bit is used to designate a kind of region. In the fuel map this is the O2 feedback region, in the timing map this is the knock feedback region (i.e. in both cases where that sensor is actually used).

Notice that for the VE program (like all my programs) there is no knock feedback region. So in your case you never need to look at the 'knock' view of your timing map.

For the fuel you never need to work with the 'Feedback' view either when tuning WOT (i.e. on a dyno). The reason for this is under WOT you'll be operating on the far right column, and note its all in the non-feedback region.

-Do spend a little time before the dyno session (and not right before, you can do this tonight in about 5 minutes) verifying where you are operating on the fuel/timing maps. Note that I've got the TP (this is load, not TPS, it stands for 'Theoretical Pulsewidth' and is the pulsewidth calculated for the current MAF voltage and RPM needed for 14:1 AFR) and RPM scales of both fuel and timing maps the same, so if you trace one you know where you are on both. Simply do a WOT pull on the street and watch in Nissan DataScans map trace mode. See the 'map tracing is cool' sticky in my section of the sr20forum if you don't know how to do this.

-That being said I know your going to be in the 60-68 columns. Note I made them all the same, keep it that way.

-Do have some consult app running so you can check your operating conditions. Make sure your fully warmed up. Not got the consult side working yet? Post here or call me and I'll walk you through it. Its easy.

-To increase a value hightlight the cells you want to increase and hit ctrl+'+' and to decrease ctrl+'-'. The timing map is really straightforward, the values you see are is your timing (assuming your base timing is set to 15 degrees). The fuel map is also pretty straightforward- the values are really a multiplication factor of the base injection, so big numbers = richer and small numbers = leaner.

-Remember, you've really got three copies of the bin- whats saved on your harddrive, whats loaded into the laptops memory (ie TunerProRT), and whats on the ecu. You've got to keep these three in sync. Just press the 'up' arrow to upload the whole bin to the ecu (no need to turn the car off), and the 'disk' button to save your changes to the harddrive. You can also put TunerProRT in 'emulate' mode rather than uploading whole changes (push the 'chip' button), but I usually periodically upload the whole bin just so I know everybody is on the same page. It only takes 30 seconds to stop and make sure everything is syncronized; you've got plenty of time to do this between runs.

-Do make notes about what you've changed. Make a copy of your original bin- you can use the compare function in TunerProRT to flip back and forth and see what you've changed.

Thats it. If the above doesn't make sense just print it off and show it to your tuner.

Have fun!

Calum, that will help immensely!! Thank you very much!

Very nice Calum. I am just getting brave enough to do all of this on my own and you write this!

Good to know you are still out there.

Dudeman

Ain't no thing.

Here's the biggest tip- get a good understanding of how it works (it being what you need to do to tune the car- TunerProRT) before you go to the dyno shop. And not like the morning of.

Get your consult software working, get TunerProRT setup and working. Play with TunerProRT, make some changes to your timing/fuel map, upload them, drive the car and watch the changes in your consult software. The 'window' feature for datalogging in CalumSult is really friendly for doing automated logging (or stream the consult data into LogWorks2/3 if your using an Innovate wideband and use its event driven logging). Do something simple like log your current timing curve (i.e. timing as a function of RPM at WOT), then take your timing map and pull 3 degrees across the whole WOT region (columns 60-68 on the VE map). Then repeat and watch the log change, and feel how the car feels. Thats a fun exercise because its exactly what you want to do on the dyno- pull 1 degree of timing across the board and watch how it affects your power band (or doesn't affect it). Btw I find for doing this kind of street testing its best to let someone else drive the car and I just fiddle with the laptop.

For an NA VE you can get this done in an evening, otherwise your paying your shop to learn the software instead of tuning your car, and thats a waste of money. If you know the software you can show them in 5 minutes what they need to know to tune your car.