Thread: Brake bleeding, the stated order in fsm and the possible no go brake master cylinder bleeding.

My question is about how should I bleed my brakes? Ghetto style?

By forgetting to reinstall a brake drum that popped with all the brake fluid spilled, I learned by putting that back I still gotten more pedal pressure. But it still is not quite, I believe brake bleeding would help and since I know this didn't happen before and the style of maintenance and the story of the seller I'm sure it almost never happened.

I do have a pool cover so that I can catch any oil but how do I bleed my brakes? I'm not sure I can get to my master brake cylinder. Is it not wise to not bleed this?

How do I bleed my brakes single handed?

If that is a bad idea, please explain to me how to bleed? I did it before but that was with help and some retries, but that was a Nx2000 with abs, this one is a Nx1600 with nothing

So I have the proper tool to losen brake line nuts and a pool cover.

The easy way is with two people. One person to operate the brake pedal, and the other to work the valves on each caliper/actuator.
However, you'll need access to the master cylinder to add fluid back as needed. Not sure what you mean that you can't get to your master cylinder. It should be high up in the engine bay installed on the brake booster and easy to access.

If you can't find someone to help, there are "speed bleeding" tools that use vacuum and pressure to help bleed the braking system. I've heard great things, but never used one myself.

Bleeding brakes without ABS is easier than bleeding brakes with ABS, so you're in good shape there.

It sounds like you certainly do need to bleed your brakes. Once you figure it out it should make sense.

I see. That is great, I'll charter someone. So I have to find the four brake bleeder valves that are easy to pint since they end there where rubber brake lines stop and let the second person pump a lot. I think having a transparant hose is a good idea to see any bubbles and wasting some fluid won't hurt since refreshing all fluid is a good idea.

So maybe having a regular bucket or a slightly smaller one with using the pool cover on the floor with the stands on it and the car jacked without wheels makings things easier I think now and for the master brake cylinder, I remember having trouble accessing it with the proper tool, but that was with abs.

So i'll check for a single valve on the master brake cylinder and then I start bleeding there first, then longest line to shortest I guess?

I am not aware filling oil at the master brake cylinder or did you tell me the resevoir is on top of it and should not reach low levels. Also it might spill, check.

I'm curious to learn I forgot something. That I'll get a better brake response after doing this small job seems certain. Now I hope to learn how to reach the sweet spot with my brake pedal where I currently have no reference or can tell by bleeding or sight it was done properly. I do have some spare brake fluid and I'll find someone who can press the brake pedal.

Or should I let the engine run for pressure?

There is nothing on the master cylinder to bleed, unless you're bench bleeding it (which you're not). You only need to re-fill the fluid in the master cylinder as you bleed so the reservoir doesn't run dry.

Skip the pool cover under the car. You won't need it. You should only need a small oil pan at most. A bottle with a tube going through the cap is really all you need in the end.

Watch some YouTube videos about how to bleed the brakes. It sounds like you could use a refresher.

Yes, bleed the farthest away (longest line) first, then next shortest, etc.

Don't run the engine. This should all be done with the engine off. Again, check some videos online.

Okay. I was taught by a car mechanic the first time but he let me work on my Nx2000 now I will get someone that is capable of pressing the brake pedal at my wish. Besides the theory I'll learn from youtubers and readups I'll get a little hose and a pan. I think I know which diameter hose I need and I'll check this first with some hose before setting the car up for someone that has some time for me to press the brake pedal and I determine to follow my longest line first approach but I will check fsm and I'll follow their steps and I suppose I need to have a running engine am I right?

If the above is satisfiable as a strategy I'm happy to hear about it or please tell me what I'm overlooking or doing in a less smart way. I think I can't go wrong but just as with the handbrake I would like to take my time, bleed everything twice I suppose if I have jacked my car up and have the wheels removed to get to the sweet spot and being able to tell some braided brakelines from ebay will help replacing the worn rubber brake lines which I believe they always are with a 100k+ mileage.

Then, made sure I got the proper size hose, I'll want to ask a favour once and that will be someone (not decided yet), that will not know what is going on when I tell to press the brake. That could be fun since I tried to learn people to put the car in second and let the clutch go when I say yes, let it go Now! and that gave varying results. One of them drove about the whole street to learn after this magical move the car needed to brake or to be turned to not end up in someones backyard Maybe I should ask her again being prepared to tell her, this time that can not happen.

No, the engine should not be running. You can bleed the brakes even without an engine in the car. No engine. Don't turn it on to bleed the brakes.