Thread: TDMi Outer Tie Rod End Fitment Issue?

Hey All,

Just wanted to see if anyone else had any issues installing these. My setup is as follows:

- Tein SS Coilovers (205/50R15 tires, 2 finger gap between tires and fender)
- Progress Front Anti-Sway Bar (Full Soft)
- Brand New Moog Inner Tie Rods

The issue I have is that, at full droop and with the TDMi ends mounted under the knuckle, short spacer up (moderate drop), my inner tie rods touch the very corner of the flat metal piece on the Progress sway bar. I have a feeling if I grind off some of the corner of the sway bar, it should clear no problem.

I know not the easiest thing to visualize so I will get some pics next time I can get the NX up on stands. Anyone have any sort of fitment issues like this though?

Lmk what you guys have experienced.

Branden
Aka hawaiiaNX

P.S. I am in no way displeased with the TDMi tie rod ends. As a matter of fact, i am kinda bummed they are not already on my car. A little bit of work and they should fit no problem. Excited to see how they feel!

When I put the tie rod ends under the spindle I had a lot of bump steer. I don't suggest installing them without checking this.

Not related but my stock tires rub on my progress fsb

Yea, I had to install mine on top of the knuckle due too the inner tie rod hitting the progress bar. My tires also rub the bar aswell (195/55/15 on b14 wheels).

Did your inner tie rods contact the sway bar at all? I am figuring that if they touch the sway bar at full droop it could be causing some binding and that could be part of the issue. I personally didn't take any chances and switched to my Moog tie rod ends so as not to damage the new inner tie rods. Will grind down part of the sway bar and see if that makes any difference for fitment. Will take pics as I go.



Interesting. My NX has 205/50R15 tires on B14 wheels and there is no rubbing for me.



How would you go about installing them on top? The beveled side of the rod seems to only fit in from the top down. Installing it from the bottom up left me without enough threads on the threaded side to bolt the nut down.

On a side note, I had 195/55/R15's tires on B14 wheels on the SER when it had the Progress FSB on it and no rubbing either.

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX

I don't run front sway bar. 225/45/15 Hoosier's on 7" wheels. Sway bar on corner exit tends to lift inside tire causing a push. I don't like lowering front too much. Lower control arm level to the ground. Any lower and roll center is too close to ground. This causes you to have to run very high spring rates. I use roll center correcting lower ball joints to get ride height down. But my lower control arm is level. It takes a lot of roll stiffness in the rear for the car to turn on corner entry. I run 600/700lbs springs with custom koni valving to match springs. But mine is a race car so I'm not worried about ride quality.

OK, here are some pics. Details of my setup are in the first post.

Brand new, Moog Tie Rod Ends:


Brand new, TDMi Tie Rod Ends (mounted under knuckle, short washer UP):






Where the Inner Tie Rod was rubbing Progress sway bar while cranking the wheel left to right:


I grinded down that section on the sway bar. It allowed the inner tie rod to clear, however, the locking nut on the tie rod still contacted the sway bar near full lock and there is no way I could grind enough material off of the sway bar for the lock nut to clear AND still be safe.

In order to run these tie rod ends I would either have to get another bolt and mount the ends ON TOP of the knuckle or i'd have to find a smaller sway bar. Maybe switch back to stock. Or go traction bars. Or get some super stiff springs and re-valve to remove the front sway bar completely as @rioredstang does. No way possible to mount these on the bottom of the knuckle with a Progress sway bar. At all.

Kinda bummed. Was really hoping this would be a bolt-on affair! Anyways, keep it up with letting me know your experiences!

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX

In your second photo I have mine mounted the same way just on top of the knuckle and ditched the loose spacer to give me enough thread to bolt the nut on from underneath.

Tie rods should be parallel with the LCA when on the ground. Anything different will increase bump steer significantly over stock.

This is good info. I am not sure why, but I was under the impression that the tie rods had to be parallel to the ground and not the LCA's. Makes sense now, as they need to follow the same arc...and they can't do that if the LCA's angle up but the inner tie rods are parallel to the ground. Not sure what I was thinking.



Ohhh. That makes sense Dave. Honestly, I think I am just going to put the TDMi ends up for sale and stick with the Moog replacements. If I change my mind though, will definitely be following your lead.

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX