Thread: B13, front struts w/Koni in rear, stabilizer bracket?

I thought I had all the info I needed, but it seems that one critical piece is missing from what I've read...

I'm doing Koni inserts all around, and am using the front strut housings in the rear. I picked up two spare front struts, assembled them, and I'm now pulling the rears off, and see that there is a bracket welded to the rear strut that the rear stabilizer bar mounts to. This bracket obviously isn't on the front strut assembly.

What are folks doing to get around this issue?

Using a different sway bar...like Progress.

just make a small L bracket and connect it to the knuckle and run the end link upside down. I'm doing the same thing.

Yeah, those do mount differently. Trying to avoid another $250 at this point if I can.




Any chance for a picture of this setup? When you say 'knuckle', do you mean the two bolts that hold the strut in place, or somewhere else?

Probably just like the way Progresss, ST and others mount the rear sway...

maybe?

Progress Technology: Anti-roll bars, sport springs, coil-overs, camber kits and more since 1995!

http://www.progressauto.com/ecom/download/62.1509.pdf

I didn't crawl underneath last night to see the back side of things. Yeah, that bolt at the bottom looks like it might do the trick. Will get some measurements tonight.

Side note, that bracket is off needs to be parallel to the ground.

May depend somewhat on the dimensions of the bracket? Unless you know the proper mounting for that particular one?

I spent some time under the car tonight. When pulling the end link (is that the correct term for the piece that goes between the stabilizer bar and the strut/hub?) off, I had to undo the bracket holding the sway bar, and when loosening the bolts I could see the bar twisting. Bolting it back without the end link, it wasn't experiencing the same forces, and was easy to bolt on. So I'm assuming I have to have similar pressures when relocating that end link to mount to the hub.

I looked at the side that was still attached, and using a ruler alongside the existing link, extended that down to see where the end point needed to be having that link going downwards instead of upwards. I ended up with a very similar line to what Jody showed in that picture, though my link is longer and would end up a bit below the level of that bolt, and rear of it. To my mind, that seemed to put it too low, and at risk of damage from road debris, dropping that wheel into a pothole or other hazard. I think the only good solution would be a shorter end link.

I need to be able to mount the link so that I am pulling downwards on it with a pretty good force, just like the stock position was putting a downward (and slightly rearward?) force on that link. There doesn't appear to be any easy way to modify the existing link, so I think I'm going to have to search and see if I can find a similar, shorter link on another model car I can scavenge from.

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