Thread: Guide: Building Custom Koni Shorts (CSKs)

I would exhaust all other options first, but I've managed to torque down the top nut by wrapping the top of the shaft accessible through the spring with painters tape to protect it, then clamping down with large vise grips. The tape protects the shaft and is sticky enough to not allow it to spin when clamped down. Even if the shaft gets galled, it is at the top of the shaft which should never travel into the damper (because the coil will bind before that happens) so even if you damage the shaft it's not really an issue.

I did the same thing last night but used a mechanics towel, sadly it kept slipping. I am looking for a piece of rubber today to use, like an old belt, so it will grip with the locking pliers. It is a bit more of a headache with my situation as I have that protective boot over mine making it hard just to get the pliers in there.

I tried clean dry rubber before going to the tape method. The rubber just slipped.

Yeah, the rubber just got chewed up by the locking pliers and didn't really work. But that happened while I was just trying to remove the nut from the strut.

I wanted to check something else, something I remember mentioned in another thread. The Konis do not have threads all the way down the top of the shaft like most other struts, this causes an issue with some ways that they get mounted such as using the stock top hats like I am on the rear or even the Ground Control plate up front. I needed to add washers to take up the space and get it to bolt down without being loose. I ended up using a 19mm on the nut and 9mm wrench on the top like you "should" do.

Sadly, because the nut was first bolting down to the unthreaded part of the shaft it messed up the threads and somewhat mangled the threaded shaft on its way off. I am not happy at this at all, not happy at Koni for such a terrible design. I chased the threads but the nut was harder to get down this time and I am worried that the next time it needs to be removed that it will do more serious damage.

I am editing the original post with all of the information this far so there is no need for people to read an entire threat, like a How To should be.

Can these be done keeping the oem springs. I see the perch is cut off but can you keep that and use oem springs. Reason for asking is, if using in autocross, the shocks can be changed but springs need to remain oem. If this was covered I somehow missed it.

Yes, this can be done with stock springs, but you will loose an inch of droop travel if you shorten the Koni insert.
This should make it more clear: http://www.sr20-forum.com/information-library/45287-custom-shortened-konis-general-idea.html

If you're going to stay with stock springs, I would highly suggest you not shorten the Koni inserts, and just install them as Koni suggests in their directions.

It could also be that he needs to keep OEM Style springs but can get ones that have an inch or two drop. In which case yes, please do this. BenFenner's link (to a very good thread) boils down to... The only real reason to shorten your Koni struts is to regain travel you lose when installing a lowered spring. If you do not lower your car you can keep the stock height to the Konis. While Koni shocks are really good quality, night and day I saw from the KYB to Koni, it really is the fact you can shorten them that makes the whole thing worth it.

Thanks ben and Char. I am still unsure what road I am gonna take with autox, but def got my attention with this setup.

What about rears? Was told I need to shim them to make them work?

It totally depends on what you're planning to do. If you use front housings on the rear you will not need to shim the insert as the front housings are shorter. You may also not need to cut the insert for the rear as you're already shortening the housing overall by using fronts in the back. I personally said "what the hell" and shortened my inserts as well for the rear as I have Ground Control Adjustable coils all around.

I will note that my car sits level with the strut topped out, I am currently unsure if that is a bad thing. But for me, worse case, I could always build another set for the rear using front housings again and not shorten the insert then swap the ones I have in the rear now to the front.

This is all for a B13/N14 chassis, mind you. For the rear of a B14/B15 you have no choice for what goes in the back of the car as it is not the same setup.

Is there not a hex key in the tip of the shaft? That's the way my Konis are...hold the shaft w/an allen wrench (metric iirc) then tighten the nut.