Thread: B13 k-member removal

Hey guys,

I want to remove and coat my suspension bits. I want to know if the chassis will be ok on jack stands if I remove the k-member. The part numbered 54401 below. Also, does it simply bolt on/off or is there anything more to it?

Lastly, I've always wondered what's the purpose of the rubber block 54490?

54490 is just a mass damper, not needed and only certain cars came with them.

Should be just fine with car on jack stands and removing the k-member. Undo the steering rack and then the 4 bolts holding the K-member to the car and out it comes. Must warn you, the 4 bolts/nuts can be super duper biotch to undo.

Thanks for the quick response. Seems straight forward enough. Was wondering how much structural support is provided by the k-member.

The whole car is a giant monocoque or "tub chassis". The k-member serves the purpose of holding onto LCA bits to connect the two parts of the moving suspension LCA to the monocoque chassis.

The car will be fine on jackstands with the k-member removed and the purpose of 54490 is for NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness).

The advantage of this type of chassis has been increased strength while reducing weight.

Went off without a hitch. The bolts and nuts also didn't give me any problems surprisingly.

Next is clean up and bush removal then off to powdercoaters.

Those stabiliser 14 bolts are usually stripped. Ur lucky

Decided I couldn't have a powdercoated suspension and a shoddy looking chassis. So I stirpped the entire underside of the car from all the suspension, brake lines, fuel hardlines, brackets, fuel tank (got a good flush, new paint, all new hoses and clamps) and then painted the chassis with some chassis undercoat. I had asked for this to be done by the panel beaters when the car was painted 3 years ago, but as you can see they did a shitty superficial job, been painting around the struts.

But it's lookng great now and ready for the suspension and lines to go back in.

Before:




After:

Wow. Impressive.

Nice, Im pretty much doing the same thing right now. Except im not dropping the front subframe. Gas tank filler neck and suspension is all of because im replacing the rear hardline brake lines and figured might aswell while everything is out of the way. Nice work! Dave

Thanks



Thanks. Yeah I really didn't plan any of this. Stuff always just spiral out of control. Started with me changing the fuel pump to an ethanol compatible 340lph pump, noticed some flakes in the tank and I also cut into the 2 rubber fuel lines at the tank so had to replace them. This lead to me pulling the tank, which lead to cleaning and replacing all its hoses, then painting it, which lead to changing the fuel filler neck to a later model cars one with a ratchet style cap, which lead to me wondering about these brake load sensors http://www.sr20-forum.com/brakes-suspension/76420-rear-brake-load-sensors.html . Removing them, meant changing the brake hardlines, which leads to cleaning the chassis which leads to painting the chassis. Somewhere in between the decision to powdercoat the suspension happenned too. As well as tucking the brake hardlines and braided lines from the master cylinder so it runs behind the k-member and not along the firewall. Should give a cleaner look.

Should have just left the old fuel pump in there....hehe

Link to your thread? What are you using to paint the chassis? It's amazing how many little nooks and crannies there are. And you have to hit it from multiple angles and coats to get full coverage. I went through about 8-10 cans of paint. I hope the dried spray weighs less than the actual cans. I hate adding weight to the car.

I also painted the insides of the front fenders, so that you don't see metal when looking through any of the engine bay openings. Need to touch up a few nicks and scratches on the battleship grey engine bay then the motor can go back in.