Thread: Control arm angle modification help

Hello everyone, after hours of research on why my rear wheels on my nx2000 camber positive i have figured out that the angles of my rear lca's are all messed up (already knew this but didn't know it would mess with camber). Has anyone here ever modified the mount points for the rear lca's? One of two things needs to happen

1: lower the outside pivot point
or
2: raise the inside pivot point

The outside pivot point seems like it cant be modified because of the trailing arm bracket and the inside looks like it will run into the body. I know this is what needs to be done just dont know how to go about doing it.
Before anyone starts making comments on ride height i want it to be known that my car is on a full air ride suspension system, so yes raising it is an option but doesnt help any when i am aired out while parked and my tires are slamming into my fender because of positive camber. Any suggestions or recomendations would be greatly appreciated!

i have never seen this problem

U can somewhat see it in this pic (dont mind obnoxious wheels)

image_zpsf00b12f4.jpg Photo by djt560 | Photobucket

I went all last year with this happening...

I can't see how control arm angle is even remotely an issue. It's solely a function of strut and/or rear knuckle angle.

"To break things down even further...
If you look at the lower control arm and the strut at rest:
if the LCA is angled down - as it moves toward horizontal it actually moves the bottom of the strut away from the center of the car and increases camber.
if the LCA is parallel to the ground or angled upward as it continues up it will move the strut toward the center of the car and decrease camber.
Since the LCA is always the same length, and the shortest distance between 2 points is a straight line, the bottom of the strut must move in and out, as the LCA moves up and down, and the camber angle is going to change as it does.
For best results you want it to move from slightly downward to parallel, as that will add camber through its motion. The change in angle will be least closest to parallel. If you have lowered it to the point where the LCA is angled up all the negative camber is going to get used up by the LCA changing the angle as it rolls."

My control arm outer pivot point is facing upward even at ride height. With that being said when i air my car out it puts that pivot point even further up above the horozontal plane to the ground. When that happens it sucks the strut closer to the body and causes positive camber. In order for me to not experience this i need to lower the outer pivot point or raise the inner so that when i am at my lowest setting the control arm is parallel with the ground so i have negative camber that doesnt go to extreme when i air it back up to ride height. This is the basic "camber" theory to a macpherson strut sispension.

So, any ideas anyone on how to lower the outer pivot point or raise the inner? Lol

You can always develop a top hat camber plate with a electrice motor driving a screw to increase or decrease camber on the fly. Otherwise, you are talking serious chassis modification or custom build and cnc'd control arms.

Thats more along the lines of what i wanted to hear. What type of chassis mod? I know its not as simple as just drilling new holes higher up in the body where the control arms mount. Or is it? I don't have the ability to use my car as a reference at the moment so i cant really think in my head what the body mounts look like inside.

No, he's talking about gaining camber at the top of the strut, which is where your problem really lies. It's either in the top mount, or the strut to knuckle interface.

My strut to knuckle is already slotted and i could see -10* from it if i wanted. The problem im having is the lower i go (when i air down) the more positive camber i get. For instance i have readjusted my camber tonight and when i am at my lowest setting i am at about -5* (right about where i need to be) but as soon as i air back up to ride heigh im in the -8/9 area (obviously i cant have that when driving) this is the opposite of what 90% of cars do when they get lower and i need to figure out how to stop it. Making a top hat with more camber is not going to fix my problem nor is slotting the knuckle to strut (already done) mountin points.

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My strut to knuckle is already slotted and i could see -10* from it if i wanted. The problem im having is the lower i go (when i air down) the more positive camber i get. For instance i have readjusted my camber tonight and when i am at my lowest setting i am at about -5* (right about where i need to be) but as soon as i air back up to ride heigh im in the -8/9 area (obviously i cant have that when driving) this is the opposite of what 90% of cars do when they get lower and i need to figure out how to stop it. Making a top hat with more camber is not going to fix my problem nor is slotting the knuckle to strut (already done) mountin points.

- - - Updated - - -

My strut to knuckle is already slotted and i could see -10* from it if i wanted. The problem im having is the lower i go (when i air down) the more positive camber i get. For instance i have readjusted my camber tonight and when i am at my lowest setting i am at about -5* (right about where i need to be) but as soon as i air back up to ride heigh im in the -8/9 area (obviously i cant have that when driving) this is the opposite of what 90% of cars do when they get lower and i need to figure out how to stop it. Making a top hat with more camber is not going to fix my problem nor is slotting the knuckle to strut (already done) mountin points.

you need longer control arms mounted further inwards. which I am sure will require cutting and welding. I don't think there's any simple way around this issue.