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Thread: B13 rear suspension re-assembly problem. Alignment all wrong. (Broadband only!)

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Posts: 61-70 of 97
2008-08-13 00:46:20
#61
What about the cam adjustment bolt holder thing on the other side of the rear control arm? you only showed pics of the one visible from the rear of the car. There is another one on the other side of the rear control arm. Was that one also all beat up?
2008-08-13 01:02:43
#62
Originally Posted by NJse-r
What about the cam adjustment bolt holder thing on the other side of the rear control arm? you only showed pics of the one visible from the rear of the car. There is another one on the other side of the rear control arm. Was that one also all beat up?

I took pictures of the one towards the front of the car to show the damage. I didn't take pictures of the one facing the rear of the car because it wasn't bent any. Here is a picture that shows it is in good order:

http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1736/795619.jpg
2008-08-13 01:32:38
#63
Thinking..................
2008-08-13 04:37:17
#64
Originally Posted by Keo
I Believe the links are different, I'll try to snap some pics tonight. if you need any, I have like 2 maybe 3 sets and one already have the ES bushing installed. and one is months old put no miles on them.

Sorry Keo I completely forgot about your offer of new parts. I would have purchased them from you had I remembered. Sorry. =/
2008-08-13 05:54:48
#65
mmm i'm lost here... even with the tons of pics nothing really seems out of order!!!... could it just be the car?... anything bent underneath?... any hits there?...

just asking on this.. don't the rear shocks use a terminal attached to them?... pic:


i didn't find that on the pics, don't think thats it but just brainstorming here!...

when i first bought my car the rear right wheel had camber issues, it was just one of the shocks bolts being to thin... don't think its that either since its not just camber issues you've got!...

this problem defeneatly eludes my limited knowledge!!!
2008-08-13 14:29:17
#66
Originally Posted by Fernando
could it just be the car?... anything bent underneath?
The car was perfect for 5+ years and then I took it apart (had to cut through a few bolts, was pretty careful) and now it's a mess. I'm thinking black magic.
2008-08-13 15:58:09
#67
You are one methodical, dedicated, anal-retentive, stubborn, hard-working, engineering-oriented, forum member.

Wow (!) on all your work, time, effort, thoughts, and attention to detail.

Yes, I am following (as best I can), and no I have not updated the Suspension Thread yet.

Free bump for more input from mechanical-engineering suspension savvy folks.
2008-08-13 16:07:47
#68
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Sorry Keo I completely forgot about your offer of new parts. I would have purchased them from you had I remembered. Sorry. =/


hehe, I was getting ready to say. it's all good man.

I'm at work, so I can't see your picture. I'll see if I can help some.

side note: if you want to sell the T28 manifold stuff back to me, I'll buy it!
2008-08-13 16:48:03
#69
Originally Posted by Keo
side note: if you want to sell the T28 manifold stuff back to me, I'll buy it!
The turbo bits are going on soon come hell or high water.
2008-08-13 19:33:37
#70
One more thing I'd like to add just from a performance perspective. Every joint in the rear is designed as a revolute joint yet is unable to act like one. I'll explain. Aside from the fact that the joints need to move from side to side in addition to rotating, the rotation that seems obviously required by the joint is greatly hindered by the joint design. When every joint is loose they are able to rotate properly. When tight, the inner sleeve of the bushing is sandwiched and becomes effectively part of the chassis in the case of the inboard joints and part of the cast iron knuckle in the case of the outboard joints. This means that the rotation of the joint can not take place between the sleeve and the bolt. The rotation can't take place between the sleeve and the stock rubber bushing either as they are glued together. The rotation can't take place between the rubber bushing and the outer sleeve of the parallel link because these too are glued together. The rotation must take place in the rubber itself. This means that depending on at what state (loaded or droop) you tighten the bolts you could have added spring rate, or reduced spring rate in each side of the rear. Not to mention the wear introduced to the rubber. I've heard of Teflon sheets or similar used to help reduce this problem and didn't understand the problem until I saw it with my own eyes the other day.

This situation changes with ES bushings as the bushings are greased (not glued) between the inner sleeve and the urethane as well as between the outer sleeve and the urethane. ES bushings won't add or subtract to your spring rate as long as the grease film is maintained but could be a lot worse than factory rubber if not properly greased.

I'm about ready to declare the B13 rear suspension one of the worst in history it's so bad from a maintenance, performance, and longevity standpoint. Obviously it's inexpensive, which explains why we've got it in the first place. Woohoo!
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