My rant was inspired by what we call a Gobo head, in the film biz.
Here's a link so you can see the action of swivel. Just imagine the top part of the swivel head in the picture, would be machined to fit into the body, allowing movement up and down, bushed as a standard link end; however the bottom of the swivel chunk, would look similar to the picture, but just the lower half, with the link sliding through the chunk. The link would be off-centered (with a grade 8 bolt, not a grip handle), so the link may be adjusted:
http://www.adorama.com/catlite.tpl?op=large_image&sku=AED250.JPG
The sliding hole may be off-centered, so a solid aluminum link can slide through, with fat springs on either side, mounted to the blue aluminum, through this swivel head, to stabilize the link movement. It would help if the swivel head was ground flat on both sides, (instead of being round, as in the picture).
The springs will seat into the swivel, on the inner side and outer side of the head, possibly machined round for spring seats.
A street-able version wouldn't have springs, instead it would have pre-adjusted notches on the link ends. Maybe 5 levels of pre-cut camber, ground as notches into the link-ends. This system, even as a solid link, will lower the angle of the link, with adjustment to camber, but not flex-able as the spring loaded version. Again, this allows X-Y travel, without any reaction by the link, as in a spring loaded version.
On an adjustable version, with springs, the center bolt in the center of the swivel head, would have to bottom out, leaving the shims to flex, as a swivel.
The choice of materials used between the swivel head, are also "dealers choice", for thicker or thinner / slippery, less slippery- materials, which will react differently, giving you the option to tighten up the reaction time of the swivel / spring loading, as the chassis reacts within the flex-able machine limitations.
The outer link-ends with springs would be the hard stop, Just as the inside springs, mounted on the link ends, would stop the geometry from drooping the suspension, in concert with the struts. (The end of a sprung set-up, would need to be designed to take a hard hit, against the end of the link, so it doesn't break when it snaps back. Like a collet, with a replaceable compression pin, to act as a stop, or a lock-nut, threaded on the end of the link, so the outer spring tension is adjustable.
Maybe you want a bunch less spring on one side or the other. The swivel-head with inner and outer springs, is infinitely adjustable.
With pre-set rear wheel camber, when you slide the car hard against the link springs, the outside tire, in relation to the slide, would camber outward, until the outer tire settled flat to the ground, at max spring tension, (or at the stopping point of limited travel at the swivel). The lower swivel may reduce body roll, as it lowers the assembly to close to 90 degrees.
The opposite side, during a slide, would react against a shorter or harder spring, so camber deflection would be restricted, keeping the inside tire, during a slide, near pre-set camber, (or just slightly increased, at the most).
This system may require a racing torsion bar, instead of a standard rear stabilizer bar, and a ball joint at the strut tower, so everything can shift smoothly, under stress.
Here's a link so you can see the action of swivel. Just imagine the top part of the swivel head in the picture, would be machined to fit into the body, allowing movement up and down, bushed as a standard link end; however the bottom of the swivel chunk, would look similar to the picture, but just the lower half, with the link sliding through the chunk. The link would be off-centered (with a grade 8 bolt, not a grip handle), so the link may be adjusted:
http://www.adorama.com/catlite.tpl?op=large_image&sku=AED250.JPG
The sliding hole may be off-centered, so a solid aluminum link can slide through, with fat springs on either side, mounted to the blue aluminum, through this swivel head, to stabilize the link movement. It would help if the swivel head was ground flat on both sides, (instead of being round, as in the picture).
The springs will seat into the swivel, on the inner side and outer side of the head, possibly machined round for spring seats.
A street-able version wouldn't have springs, instead it would have pre-adjusted notches on the link ends. Maybe 5 levels of pre-cut camber, ground as notches into the link-ends. This system, even as a solid link, will lower the angle of the link, with adjustment to camber, but not flex-able as the spring loaded version. Again, this allows X-Y travel, without any reaction by the link, as in a spring loaded version.
On an adjustable version, with springs, the center bolt in the center of the swivel head, would have to bottom out, leaving the shims to flex, as a swivel.
The choice of materials used between the swivel head, are also "dealers choice", for thicker or thinner / slippery, less slippery- materials, which will react differently, giving you the option to tighten up the reaction time of the swivel / spring loading, as the chassis reacts within the flex-able machine limitations.
The outer link-ends with springs would be the hard stop, Just as the inside springs, mounted on the link ends, would stop the geometry from drooping the suspension, in concert with the struts. (The end of a sprung set-up, would need to be designed to take a hard hit, against the end of the link, so it doesn't break when it snaps back. Like a collet, with a replaceable compression pin, to act as a stop, or a lock-nut, threaded on the end of the link, so the outer spring tension is adjustable.
Maybe you want a bunch less spring on one side or the other. The swivel-head with inner and outer springs, is infinitely adjustable.
With pre-set rear wheel camber, when you slide the car hard against the link springs, the outside tire, in relation to the slide, would camber outward, until the outer tire settled flat to the ground, at max spring tension, (or at the stopping point of limited travel at the swivel). The lower swivel may reduce body roll, as it lowers the assembly to close to 90 degrees.
The opposite side, during a slide, would react against a shorter or harder spring, so camber deflection would be restricted, keeping the inside tire, during a slide, near pre-set camber, (or just slightly increased, at the most).
This system may require a racing torsion bar, instead of a standard rear stabilizer bar, and a ball joint at the strut tower, so everything can shift smoothly, under stress.
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Originally Posted by BenFenner 
... but ok i promise i'll study it a little bit more since i'm starting to take mine off today
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