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Thread: B13 rear suspension re-assembly problem. Alignment all wrong. (Broadband only!)

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Posts: 31-40 of 97
2008-07-19 06:06:07
#31
Originally Posted by BenFenner
I wish you had my answer, but that's not it. =(


Dude......I thought I totally nailed that, I am so disappointed. Is it possible that you might have switched the two sides up? It just seems like that it is the most logical answer. I am just having a problem with how I had no problems with my install and you did.
2008-07-19 07:22:47
#32
NJ-ser. funny you should say that.

i'm starting to doubt myself now. i went to put my +33 offset FNO1R-C's on my racecar today so i could move it around and turns out the tire is binding on the trailing arm.

i'm beginning to think i may have swapped the sides. time to pull out the fsm and check again. wierd, because i had my other b13 parked right next to it when i installed them and remembered looking at the other car to ensure i had them the right way.
2008-07-19 07:38:28
#33
Originally Posted by NJse-r
Is it possible that you might have switched the two sides up?

There's a small possibility that happened, but when I did the bushings on them (the only time I ever took them apart) I did them one at a time. I don't see how I could have mixed them up. Not even sure they are different part numbers. I meant to give Greg V. a call about all this this week but it'll have to wait until Monday. I will have all the relevant part numbers soon. I'm pretty sure I'm just going back to stock all around in the rear. If what I'm told is true, I need to order all new links to get the bushings, so I'm really only out the cost of the rear ES bushing set. That and the rear set of Falken tires. They lasted 3,000 miles. =/
2008-07-19 14:14:27
#34
Originally Posted by BenFenner
There's a small possibility that happened, but when I did the bushings on them (the only time I ever took them apart) I did them one at a time. I don't see how I could have mixed them up. Not even sure they are different part numbers. I meant to give Greg V. a call about all this this week but it'll have to wait until Monday. I will have all the relevant part numbers soon. I'm pretty sure I'm just going back to stock all around in the rear. If what I'm told is true, I need to order all new links to get the bushings, so I'm really only out the cost of the rear ES bushing set. That and the rear set of Falken tires. They lasted 3,000 miles. =/


It's just thought....check it out. The sides might be swapped and upside down, making them look correctly installed. Can you take a picture of both sides with the tires off an dpost it up?
2008-07-19 14:26:03
#35
I'm in the middle of moving this week, I'll see what I can do.
2008-07-19 17:05:27
#36
Hey Ben,

I think Mike is correct in suggesting the ride would be very rough, unless you integrate cushion for the bolt assembly, restraining your Hiem Joint system. The body-bolt would take all the inner force, without some sort of cushion / shock absorber, to the body mount.

Without the flexibility of Urethane, rubber, (**or a dual spring cushion**), every time your wheel left the ground and slammed back down, the body mounts would take a direct hit, because of the forced geometry.

Because there is little deflection to work with on our frames, one would have to allow the force of hard cornering, so as to move towards the center of the car, and have strong memory , so it comes right back in-line.

Like mini-struts, with adjustable spring rate, to limit inner movement, back and forth, these rods would slide through the bearing / swivel. This hole would need to be bushed, or greased, in order to allow the rod smooth movement through the swivel block.

The links would be longer, so as to run through the swivel body mount, and have extra length for springs on both the inner and the outer side of the swivel. A simple pin and washer would hold the pre-loaded springs, centering the link, from either outer or inner movement. Threaded adjustments would be even sweeter, but not necessary, if cost prohibitive.

I have in mind, a solid aluminum piece, which hangs aluminum links below the body mount.

One would use the OEM bolt and urethane bushing for the body mount, and the link would hang below and run through the swivel mount, lowering and improving geometry. This aluminum swivel, could have Fafner bearings or Teflon / Nylon swivel, instead of the Hiem Joint at the body. One could still use the Hiems at both hub mounts.

The chunk hanging below the body mount would have adjustable springs, absorbing force, on both sides of the link.

The travel would be more like a Baha full link, if the geometry at the trailing arm can be twinned, so the wheel stays parallel in both directions of movement.

Now you have "x" movement at the Hiems, on either side of the hub and "X-Y" movement with adjust-ability and shock control, at the body mount. The springs would have to be tough, so they take shock and return to center.

The rear trailing arm may be redesigned to incorporate a duel trailing arm system, so the allowed travel remains parallel to the swiveling link arms, while maintaining correct geometry. (Unlike the poor control of the existing trailing arm).

I don't have a hub in hand, so as to imagine how a parallel trailing arm would be designed, or mount to existing body mounts. Maybe the same trailing arm would work, if the spring tension at the links is enough to retain geometry?
2008-07-19 17:52:09
#37
subscribed... I have had the full es bushing kit for two years and haven't installed them because this was unclear. I'd love to see what happens here. Ben, can you take a picture of the damage you're speaking of?
2008-07-19 22:48:16
#38
I could have sworn I took pictures of the bent bolts when I took them apart. Apparently not though. I just went through my pics, nothing there. I'll be taking the rear apart soon enough and I'll have pics.
2008-07-20 16:18:58
#39
Just be sure to take a picture of it how you have it assembled right now before you tear it apart.
2008-07-20 16:41:36
#40
I'll make sure to document the process.
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