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Thread: Alignment Q's

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Posts: 11-20 of 31
2008-05-28 17:52:38
#11
I will have to investigate some more. maybe i have the strut/coilover assembled wrong. There isnt a whole lot of travel left before the bump stop up front. So i dont want to go much lower but i would have liked it to be a little lower. I really dont think there is a better way to assemble them but i could be wrong. The upper coil mount does sit pretty low. I put a urathane spacer between the cusco mount and the upper coil mount. I tried posting but no one replied to it and it seems self explanitory.


Does anything look out of place to you?
2008-05-29 01:47:32
#12
Originally Posted by squirlz

Bolt-in-Bars bump stop eliminator kit (set under the spindle with the one large spacer)


whoa!!

dude, this setting would be for a car lowered about 3" or more!!!!

you really need to measure your bump steer if you are going to use these.

i have a feeling on suspension compression you are getting wild toe out.


i would suggest running the tierods directly over the spindle/(steering arm). which would be ~.5" lower than stock. or at least take the spacer out. then you would be ~ 1.5" lower than stock.

good luck
-chuck
2008-05-29 02:46:53
#13
Originally Posted by octotat
whoa!!

dude, this setting would be for a car lowered about 3" or more!!!!

you really need to measure your bump steer if you are going to use these.

i have a feeling on suspension compression you are getting wild toe out.


i would suggest running the tierods directly over the spindle/(steering arm). which would be ~.5" lower than stock. or at least take the spacer out. then you would be ~ 1.5" lower than stock.

good luck
-chuck


That makes sense. The tie rod is angling down on to the spindle so when compressed it will cause toe out. So i want it to angle slightly up or level with the spindle, correct? This will give me a little toe in during compression.

I could see why this is giving me a weird feeling at higher speeds but not at 30mph. The stiff springs do not compress during slow city corners but at higher speeds the forces are greater and compress the springs. So when i start the turn the toe changes so i have to take some steering away or i will over steer like crazy.

Thanks for the info, i will go back and change that on the rack and see what happens.
2008-05-29 05:16:33
#14
Originally Posted by squirlz
I will have to investigate some more. maybe i have the strut/coilover assembled wrong. There isnt a whole lot of travel left before the bump stop up front. So i dont want to go much lower but i would have liked it to be a little lower. I really dont think there is a better way to assemble them but i could be wrong. The upper coil mount does sit pretty low. I put a urathane spacer between the cusco mount and the upper coil mount. I tried posting but no one replied to it and it seems self explanitory.


Does anything look out of place to you?


Sorry I cannot see images from work (#$%^# firewalls!) so no visual clue for now!

Please, any time (your) reality contradicts (my) theory, maybe one of those is wrong. I will recheck the #s I posted since you do say that you are definitely lower than my #s indicate but you need to measure and investigate as you say.
2008-05-29 05:21:03
#15
Originally Posted by squirlz
That makes sense. The tie rod is angling down on to the spindle so when compressed it will cause toe out. So i want it to angle slightly up or level with the spindle, correct? This will give me a little toe in during compression.

I could see why this is giving me a weird feeling at higher speeds but not at 30mph. The stiff springs do not compress during slow city corners but at higher speeds the forces are greater and compress the springs. So when i start the turn the toe changes so i have to take some steering away or i will over steer like crazy.

Thanks for the info, i will go back and change that on the rack and see what happens.


Bingo! Listen to Chuck, he did make them after all.
2008-05-29 15:50:01
#16
Originally Posted by squirlz
That makes sense. The tie rod is angling down on to the spindle so when compressed it will cause toe out. So i want it to angle slightly up or level with the spindle, correct?


the general rule of thumb is that you want the tierods to be parallel (at the same angel) to the control arms.

but that is a way general rule

there are many variables, it is best to start with measuring static (car at rest) bumpsteer. then adjust for driving conditions.

-chuck
2008-05-29 17:26:44
#17
Originally Posted by octotat
the general rule of thumb is that you want the tierods to be parallel (at the same angel) to the control arms.

but that is a way general rule

there are many variables, it is best to start with measuring static (car at rest) bumpsteer. then adjust for driving conditions.

-chuck


It looks like i have some more research to do. Thank you for your help and a great product.
2008-06-02 04:10:51
#18
I had some time to take a look at it. I took the spacer out of the bump steer kit and dropped the car another .75" and it is great. I tried to align it myself and i think i got it close. The first time the fronts had a lot of toe in but after re-adjusting i think it is close. I had to make everything to do the alignment but the car does not pull and the tires are not getting hot.

Thanks Octotat and everyone else for the help. The tie rods are almost perfectly level and no weird steering feel anymore.
2008-06-02 09:17:49
#19
2009-04-18 01:32:47
#20
Along the same lines. Has anyone used the bump steer kit with a progress front swaybar? At full droop and the progress links as low as I can get them I have one side making slight contact with the progress bar. It slightly touches the metal tab that has the mounting holes in the bar itself....
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