Thread: Alignment Q's

Those tabs needs to be ground down by as much as 1/4" to be considered safe. Check the suspension movement at full droop and turn the steering wheel left and right to make sure it's not touching.

Squirlz, glad you had you problem taken care of. I did notice the bump stop was upside down in the photo. No biggie.

I might have to go back and get it checked again, i have a slight wear but it might be from my crazy driving. I didnt know how the bump stops were suppose to go so thats what i did. I didnt think it would make that much difference.

Wes, im running a ST front bar with no issues but they use the standard mounts for the bar.

As long as the suspension is not bottoming out, it's ok.

Yeah I will do some grinding. I am also going to follow a recommendation from Mike K. which is to put washers between the bushing backing plate and th chassis to pull the bar down.

Thanks!

Hmm, maybe i will switch those around this weekend, it wont take but a minute.

So I have the bump steer kit in, tie rods perfectly level, Whiteline caster bushings no contact at full droop lock to lock. Only down side is that I cannot use any sway bar setting except full stiff as it keeps the bar the lowest. I did grind off 90% off the top of the tab.

At any rate I had it on the rack today and we were unable to get enough adjustment out of the inner tie rods to get the toe even close to spec. I will admit I am new to alignment's so please help me sort this out.

With the bump steer kit installed, the sleeve that threads on the tie rod doea not allow for toe adjustment when installed as it simply threads back and forth as both side are right threads. As such we got it bottomed on one end with no adjustment on the other. I need to replace one of the tie rods, as the nut is seized at a certain point.

What is the best way to initially set the bump steer kit? How far in did you thread the heim joint as that appears to be the only way to adjust toe at the ends.

I have been working on mine too. After a few years of using the kit, I finally found the time to try and solve this problem.
Grind away as much as you can on the sway bar mount. It is very strong, so no worries on any failure. I cut a 1/4" of the bar link so that the heim joint can go further lower and you can use the second adjustment on the bar.

I have the same problem with the bottoming out too. First turn the wheel left to right all the way and find the center of the rack. Then lock the steering wheel center with a bungee cord or an alignment wheel lock. That is you center line. Then adj. the tie rods as needed toe plates will make this less tedious too. This is time consuming. It would have been easier if the kit came with left & right threaded joints.

Mine went right in, never had any problems with getting the toe adjusted. I had someone there who does alignments but we didnt do anything special. One thing i did notice after a little bit of use, is that there is a little slop on where the heim joint mounts to the threaded rod. This should have been a solid part of the rod, i think the threads are getting crushed causing play.

I am trying to put my car away but the wife needs a new car first. So when i do i am going to pull the whole suspension and rebuild it again, with new shocks that will work this time. I want to work out these issues and get a manual rack.

I notice the slight play now and I have only driven the car to and from the alignment shop. I think I have mine so far off of where it was when I started that we are running in to these issues. I am going to start by replacing the one bad inner tie rod I have with the seized nut, and then go from there. I may also try and have one side of the sleeve reverse threaded by going up one size and getting an appropriately seized heim joint.

In looking at the kit it could be improved upon in a number of ways. reverse threads, solid joint end, properly sized heim joints so they don't bind with the tie rods in the center....

Sounds EXACTLY like my car.

Did you cut the male end of the heim joint or the female end of the link? I was going to trim both. I was also thinking of welding an extension to the control arm to get the links more vertically straight.

Did you adjust the heim joint or did you use the inner tie rod adjustment?