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Thread: Replacing SRL with Panhard bar

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Posts: 31-40 of 53
2013-07-02 18:39:55
#31
Originally Posted by cayman_primera
Originally Posted by Vadim
If you go with a panhard, this is the proper way to go: http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension-brakes-tech/60399-b-14-panhard-bar-conversion-lots-pics.html

Notice how long the bar is, notice how low it is, also notice that it's parallel to the ground while car is sitting flat. It will be very hard to accomplish this with a bolt on panhard to SRL link. It will be angled while your sitting flat, it is very high above the ground (very high roll center), and it's very short thus lots of lateral movement and jacking forces.


I was all over this thread, i would love to do it properly but it is my daily and I dont have a lift. Maybe once I can afford another car on this island I can take the beam out and get to work on it.



Keep in mind if you're welding to the beam, the heat from weld could actually change the toe and/or camber. This is the biggest reason Joe @ 2J doesn't sell a panhard kit. After he does his panhard conversions he'll use his heat expansion/shrinking techniques to get the beam to whatever spec is required. If you just go and weld to the beam without taking that into consideration, you could be leaving a lot on the table with regards to peak suspension tuning. That might sound really anal, but after seeing minute changes add up to really significant handling improvements, I'd say it's not anal at all.
2013-07-02 18:50:37
#32
Originally Posted by Vadim
Originally Posted by cayman_primera

I was all over this thread, i would love to do it properly but it is my daily and I dont have a lift. Maybe once I can afford another car on this island I can take the beam out and get to work on it.


I hear ya, I'm in the same boat as you. One way you can make it better is by running very stiff rear springs and equal or softer front springs. This worked very well on my B15. I don't want to run such high rates on my daily P11 (which is also heavier then yours), thus I'm also looking for ways to make it better.


I have 600lb springs on the rear and the stock Tein 400lb up front. I want to try 500lb up front, but I will decide when i get the rear tires up to par.

if i cant get the tires before next event, then i may just raise the front to put more weight on the rears when braking and change the sway bar setting to mid or full soft.
2013-07-02 18:54:20
#33
Originally Posted by cayman_primera

I have 600lb springs on the rear and the stock Tein 400lb up front. I want to try 500lb up front, but I will decide when i get the rear tires up to par.

if i cant get the tires before next event, then i may just raise the front to put more weight on the rears when braking and change the sway bar setting to mid or full soft.


How heavy are the primera's over there? Also keep in mind multi-links have 0.7:1 motion ratio, your 400lbs front springs really are ~280lbs
2013-07-02 19:00:25
#34
Looky what I found! Section D - OVERSTEER

2013-07-02 19:13:30
#35
Originally Posted by hammerin
Originally Posted by cayman_primera
Originally Posted by Vadim
If you go with a panhard, this is the proper way to go: http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension-brakes-tech/60399-b-14-panhard-bar-conversion-lots-pics.html

Notice how long the bar is, notice how low it is, also notice that it's parallel to the ground while car is sitting flat. It will be very hard to accomplish this with a bolt on panhard to SRL link. It will be angled while your sitting flat, it is very high above the ground (very high roll center), and it's very short thus lots of lateral movement and jacking forces.


I was all over this thread, i would love to do it properly but it is my daily and I dont have a lift. Maybe once I can afford another car on this island I can take the beam out and get to work on it.



Keep in mind if you're welding to the beam, the heat from weld could actually change the toe and/or camber. This is the biggest reason Joe @ 2J doesn't sell a panhard kit. After he does his panhard conversions he'll use his heat expansion/shrinking techniques to get the beam to whatever spec is required. If you just go and weld to the beam without taking that into consideration, you could be leaving a lot on the table with regards to peak suspension tuning. That might sound really anal, but after seeing minute changes add up to really significant handling improvements, I'd say it's not anal at all.


Wow, never even thaught of that. i would of just welded the s*** out of it and then be wondering why my car tracks funny. lol.
Thanks, will keep that in mind "if" I go through with it.

i will just put the panhard bar at the bottom of the things to do list but thanks for all the input.
2013-07-02 19:26:31
#36
Originally Posted by Kyle
Looky what I found! Section D - OVERSTEER


Nice Read, too bad it was meant for RWD cars. The only thing that stuck out was the travel, then I found this pic when I made new top hats for my coils:

So on the right coil with the stock top hat. Look where the red zip-tie is. A dude that Tracked his motorbike showed me that trick. You can see that i have a lot of travel left when the spring was at it's lowest. And then I should have even more now with the new top hats.

dead shock maybe?? but would it not do it more often rather than just on the brakes? honestly I do beleive the problem is the tires, I did not have this problem when I had 235 Toyo R1R but now I have more front bite when braking(my toyos would lock up a lot easier) with the hankooks the rear just looses grip.

I have not yet locked the hankooks in these 4 events. Maybe a chirp here and there but not a full lock up.
2013-07-02 19:41:26
#37
Originally Posted by Vadim
Originally Posted by cayman_primera

I have 600lb springs on the rear and the stock Tein 400lb up front. I want to try 500lb up front, but I will decide when i get the rear tires up to par.

if i cant get the tires before next event, then i may just raise the front to put more weight on the rears when braking and change the sway bar setting to mid or full soft.


How heavy are the primera's over there? Also keep in mind multi-links have 0.7:1 motion ratio, your 400lbs front springs really are ~280lbs


I want to say 1200kgs but they dont really feel too heavy. But i did remove a lot of stuff from my car too. trunk lid has been gutted
, hood supports removed etc.
Last edited by cayman_primera on 2013-07-02 at 19-49-43. Reason: dang big fingers
2013-07-02 19:59:51
#38
Originally Posted by cayman_primera
Originally Posted by Vadim
Originally Posted by cayman_primera

I have 600lb springs on the rear and the stock Tein 400lb up front. I want to try 500lb up front, but I will decide when i get the rear tires up to par.

if i cant get the tires before next event, then i may just raise the front to put more weight on the rears when braking and change the sway bar setting to mid or full soft.


How heavy are the primera's over there? Also keep in mind multi-links have 0.7:1 motion ratio, your 400lbs front springs really are ~280lbs


I want to say 1200kgs but they dont really feel too heavy. But i did remove a lot of stuff from my car too. trunk lid has been gutted
, hood supports removed etc.


1200kgs is 2,645lbs, that's very light, infact it's as light as our late model B14's and early B15's. USDM p11's are around 3,000lbs which is 1,360lbs or so.

That 300-400lbs makes a HUGE difference in handling and even performance.

As for short link panhard. I personally have tried disconnecting the center SRL link and drove the car a little with just a panhard with squishy end bushing. The car felt a little better at low speed turns, but due to the squishy end bushing it wasn't great. Plus beam shift was even worse.
2013-07-02 20:33:59
#39
Originally Posted by Vadim
Originally Posted by cayman_primera
Originally Posted by Vadim
Originally Posted by cayman_primera

I have 600lb springs on the rear and the stock Tein 400lb up front. I want to try 500lb up front, but I will decide when i get the rear tires up to par.

if i cant get the tires before next event, then i may just raise the front to put more weight on the rears when braking and change the sway bar setting to mid or full soft.


How heavy are the primera's over there? Also keep in mind multi-links have 0.7:1 motion ratio, your 400lbs front springs really are ~280lbs


I want to say 1200kgs but they dont really feel too heavy. But i did remove a lot of stuff from my car too. trunk lid has been gutted
, hood supports removed etc.


1200kgs is 2,645lbs, that's very light, infact it's as light as our late model B14's and early B15's. USDM p11's are around 3,000lbs which is 1,360lbs or so.

That 300-400lbs makes a HUGE difference in handling and even performance.

As for short link panhard. I personally have tried disconnecting the center SRL link and drove the car a little with just a panhard with squishy end bushing. The car felt a little better at low speed turns, but due to the squishy end bushing it wasn't great. Plus beam shift was even worse.


My model may be even lighter being it was the most basic other than the altia kit. it basically had a/c and power folding mirrors. no abs etc. But then again these would be things to take off if you looking to save weight. but ye, it does not feel heavy. i mean it feels like a four door but a light four door. i think the P11 primera are the same weight as the 4 door integras(JDM version)
2013-07-03 12:11:46
#40
Originally Posted by Vadim
How heavy are the primera's over there? Also keep in mind multi-links have 0.7:1 motion ratio, your 400lbs front springs really are ~280lbs


What do you mean? Does it apply for front and rear too? I want to choose right BC racing springs for my B6 Bilsteins (same as yours). I thought some 5/4kg springs would be enough because of their valving?
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