Thread: Replacing SRL with Panhard bar

I've considered this, but this panhard will be only 24" long, while the body of the p11 is about 48" long. With panhard bars, they move in a circle, the longer the bar the less relevant that circle is. They are also asymmetric, thus one side will lift and other side will squat. With such a short panhard bar the beam will have a lot of lateral displacement during compression and decompresion, which means your thrust angle will increase and decrease as your car moves up and down, not good!

What ever you do, if you keep stock SRL don't do this!
Scott Russell Link Solid Bushings

As Hank's video shows, you need that end link to move. If you do, the beam will bind up as it compresses and something will have to give, like one of the beam mounting points. Look up how triangles are some of the toughest geometry shapes.

Looks like the rear was unloaded from braking and it went wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Fix your tire issue BEFORE you do anything else. You would be surprised what sort of characteristics different rubber have and that sloppiness (the tire itself, caused by the construction or being used up) could be where "some" of your sloppiness stems from. The Review for the potenza re050 are all over the place and they do not seem to hold up well to abuse!


Also, look at the videos again and think about why the car should be raised up a bit. That snap oversteer could very well be because of binding/unbinding motion of the rear beam. it only takes a few mm to cause this unpredictability

Seems like you have several issues going on here............

You bet it did. and I went oh s***.

I must say, nice recovery, sir.

Yep, the tires are the first "major" thing to do on my list. In a way, I want to compile a list together of possible "upgrades" but will be doing it throughout the year. I dont like to change to many things at once to really know if it has a good or bad change to the setup.

I could always raise the car up to try help out, but I like the way the car is doing now so I just want to change the tires and go from there.
just was thinking about the panhard bar and wanted some information or ideas before hand.

If you go with a panhard, this is the proper way to go: http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension-brakes-tech/60399-b-14-panhard-bar-conversion-lots-pics.html

Notice how long the bar is, notice how low it is, also notice that it's parallel to the ground while car is sitting flat. It will be very hard to accomplish this with a bolt on panhard to SRL link. It will be angled while your sitting flat, it is very high above the ground (very high roll center), and it's very short thus lots of lateral movement and jacking forces.

Thanks, I was left foot braking so that helps with recovery when you can just get on the gas.
That was actually my 2nd fastest, my last run was my fastest and it bit me again.
I will be expecting it next time though.

I was all over this thread, i would love to do it properly but it is my daily and I dont have a lift. Maybe once I can afford another car on this island I can take the beam out and get to work on it.

I hear ya, I'm in the same boat as you. One way you can make it better is by running very stiff rear springs and equal or softer front springs. This worked very well on my B15. I don't want to run such high rates on my daily P11 (which is also heavier then yours), thus I'm also looking for ways to make it better.