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Thread: Replacing SRL with Panhard bar

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Posts: 11-20 of 53
2013-07-02 16:53:57
#11
Ok

What about my other two questions you left unanswered?? Eliminating rubber bushings can introduce more issues, hence why I ask what the car is doing and if you are "feeling" this slop and such.
2013-07-02 16:54:49
#12
Let me clear any setup question with my car.

Tein Coilovers SS. 400lb front spring, 600lb rear springs. Stock Front sway bar, Addco 20mm rear sway bar mounted to chassis. Infiniti G35 17x8 w/15mm spacer, 17x7.5 rear.

Car has plenty rotation when rear sway is at it's full stiff so that is not what my goal is,Like is said, car feels a bit wobbly in the rear when the road is not flat.
Last edited by cayman_primera on 2013-07-02 at 16-56-00.
2013-07-02 16:58:23
#13
Originally Posted by cayman_primera
Originally Posted by Boostlee
So what "slop" are you referring to?? How is the vehicle reacting to this "slop" you speak of?? What are you trying to accomplish?

Understanding this will open up a few avenues as opposed to what you are thinking.

And heim joints (depending on location) can be very much detrimental to how the suspension works.


by slop i mean the amount of play within the bushings. I am looking at it to eliminate the rubber bushings, not realy to get a better roll centre or anything.


Unfortunately, in order for the SRL to function properly it needs that "slop". See that sliding action in the first video? It's exaggerated, but that's basically what the big rubber bushing is accomplishing. It's "sliding" over so the chassis goes up and down in a straight line. See the pencil mark in the video? That would be the connecting point to the chassis.
2013-07-02 16:59:36
#14
Ok, understood

Heim's may cause "bind" and unpredictable conditions.

EDIT: @hammerin hank beat me to it
Last edited by Boostlee on 2013-07-02 at 17-00-50.
2013-07-02 17:03:55
#15
Doesn't everyone like infinite spring rates?
2013-07-02 17:05:05
#16
Originally Posted by hammerin
Originally Posted by cayman_primera
Originally Posted by Boostlee
So what "slop" are you referring to?? How is the vehicle reacting to this "slop" you speak of?? What are you trying to accomplish?

Understanding this will open up a few avenues as opposed to what you are thinking.

And heim joints (depending on location) can be very much detrimental to how the suspension works.


by slop i mean the amount of play within the bushings. I am looking at it to eliminate the rubber bushings, not realy to get a better roll centre or anything.


Unfortunately, in order for the SRL to function properly it needs that "slop". See that sliding action in the first video? It's exaggerated, but that's basically what the big rubber bushing is accomplishing. It's "sliding" over so the chassis goes up and down in a straight line. See the pencil mark in the video? That would be the connecting point to the chassis.


Thanks for that, I was having a hard time trying to figure out that video, lol.

RPM Net Tech Articals: Understanding Coil Springs - Powered by: AFCO
I am pretty sure you all had a read of this at some point, but this is actually what start the idea for me. down to the bottom it starts to take about the length, Recomended minimun is 20" the SRL is 23.xx which is why I was asking.

I did read the artical as well before posting, so I know the shorter arm will have more of an angle change when moving up and down but maybe with my stiffer springs that might not be much of an issue?
2013-07-02 17:08:11
#17
Stiffer springs DO help as it prevents the full weight of the car being transferred to the rear, further dropping the rear and hence initiating "bind"

Also, another (simple) trick is to just raise it ever so slightly to help in reducing that transfer effect

However, if your SS dampers haven't been revalved, that may also be an issue as it may be incapable of handling the weight transfer and may be causing TOO much weight being transferred to the rear.............
Last edited by Boostlee on 2013-07-02 at 17-09-19.
2013-07-02 17:18:25
#18
Originally Posted by Boostlee
Stiffer springs DO help as it prevents the full weight of the car being transferred to the rear, further dropping the rear and hence initiating "bind"

Also, another (simple) trick is to just raise it ever so slightly to help in reducing that transfer effect

However, if your SS dampers haven't been revalved, that may also be an issue as it may be incapable of handling the weight transfer and may be causing TOO much weight being transferred to the rear.............



As of right now I would not be able to raise it up much as I am getting some snap oversteer when braking, I feel as if it needs to go lower or raise the front(Will be raising the front). But the major reason for the snap oversteer is the tires. I have 255 Hankooks rs3 and 225 potenza re050. Both are 140 treadwear but the hankooks are much more stickier. i will be getting some 225 hankooks soon to correct this.

the SS are not re-valved but will be soon. Once they are on the hardest setting they feel fine, could be better but they will do for now.
2013-07-02 17:21:19
#19
woohoo another beam thread!
2013-07-02 17:22:24
#20
This is the most recent video of an auto-x event in June. You can see that the car handles very well now(thanks to you guys) and if you go to 5:30 then you can see the snap oversteer i am talking about.

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