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Thread: Track brakes thread

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Posts: 31-40 of 102
2013-04-27 15:10:55
#31
I ran a set pf R4s nearly 10 years ago before I upgraded my SE-R to NX2000 brakes. They had a high coefficient of friction (quick stops with low pedal pressure) and were great on the street (though dusty). HOWEVER, on the track, they were subject to fade. I was running on the Jefferson Circuit (a short track) at Summit Point with an NA B13 with S3s and destroyed a set of R4s pads before the end of the day. This is the kind of thing that you don't forget. With NX2000 calipers and rotors, there would be less heat build up, but I would still be cautious running R4s Porterfields on the track until they were proven up to the task.

Porterfield also offers a track compound, the R4. In contrast to the R4s, this one is designed and intended for track use, so it should be more appropriate for lapping days. I have read that the pad compounds are similar so it's OK to switch between these pads without turning or otherwise cleaning the rotors. I have not done this myself, but it might be possible to drive the R4s pads to the track, switch to the R4 pads for driving on the track, and then swap back for the drive home.

Food for thought.
2013-04-27 15:20:28
#32
Originally Posted by billc
I ran a set pf R4s nearly 10 years ago before I upgraded my SE-R to NX2000 brakes. They had a high coefficient of friction (quick stops with low pedal pressure) and were great on the street (though dusty). HOWEVER, on the track, they were subject to fade. I was running on the Jefferson Circuit (a short track) at Summit Point with an NA B13 with S3s and destroyed a set of R4s pads before the end of the day. This is the kind of thing that you don't forget. With NX2000 calipers and rotors, there would be less heat build up, but I would still be cautious running R4s Porterfields on the track until they were proven up to the task.

Porterfield also offers a track compound, the R4. In contrast to the R4s, this one is designed and intended for track use, so it should be more appropriate for lapping days. I have read that the pad compounds are similar so it's OK to switch between these pads without turning or otherwise cleaning the rotors. I have not done this myself, but it might be possible to drive the R4s pads to the track, switch to the R4 pads for driving on the track, and then swap back for the drive home.

Food for thought.


Bill,thanks for that additional info.
If i am gonna go to the R4 track pads,I would just get the AX-6

Now the question is what about elcheapo pads on the rear if I go AX-6 front? Can I save a few bucks there?
2013-04-27 21:42:59
#33
Originally Posted by billc
. I was running on the Jefferson Circuit (a short track) at Summit Point with an NA B13 with S3s and destroyed a set of R4s pads before the end of the day. This is the kind of thing that you don't forget. With NX2000 calipers and rotors, there would be less heat build up, but I would still be cautious running R4s Porterfields on the track until they were proven up to the task.


What sort of tires were you on?
2013-04-27 21:56:37
#34
Originally Posted by eggman

Bill,thanks for that additional info.
If i am gonna go to the R4 track pads,I would just get the AX-6

Now the question is what about elcheapo pads on the rear if I go AX-6 front? Can I save a few bucks there?


Yes, any OEM-equivalent or better pad should be fine for the rear as long as you start out with lots of pad thickness -- preferably 3/4 of new thickness or better.
2013-04-27 22:03:12
#35
Originally Posted by MCarp22
Originally Posted by billc
. I was running on the Jefferson Circuit (a short track) at Summit Point with an NA B13 with S3s and destroyed a set of R4s pads before the end of the day. This is the kind of thing that you don't forget. With NX2000 calipers and rotors, there would be less heat build up, but I would still be cautious running R4s Porterfields on the track until they were proven up to the task.


What sort of tires were you on?


This was a number of years ago, they were Yokohama street tires for summer use. I can't remember the specific name, but I would recognize it for sure. Anyway, they weren't super-high performance competition tires or anything like that.
2013-04-27 22:27:45
#36
Originally Posted by billc
Originally Posted by MCarp22
Anyway, they weren't super-high performance competition tires or anything like that.


Gotcha, you must have gotten them pretty hot! So you still had a decent pedal feel, but less torque from the brakes?

It's worth noting, in the general context of this thread,that cars running race tires will usually be harder on brakes from the extra grip / higher speeds; which is why I asked about the tires.

Porterfield's literature shows the R4S knee point around 900F (which is the temp where rotors start to glow). (page 2)
http://porterfield-brakes.com/images/portrace2008_11_06_02_41_04.pdf
Last edited by MCarp22 on 2013-04-27 at 22-31-25.
2013-04-29 02:20:08
#37
I have a bunch of years racing an SER and billc is right on the money on all of his suggestions. I have used Hawk HPS on just the front of a couple VWs and they get the job done if you are only doing a couple track days. I prefer the Carbotech pads and run them on my race car but they seem to be alot more money. If you are just doing one or two track days just start with dual purpose fronts and good fluid changed within a month of the track day. I also like the Valvoline synthetic and have even raced with it with the larger AD22 calipers. Remember pads and rotors wear more quickly with track use so you can upgrade every so often as you progress, such as more agressive front and rears. The Portefield R4 are easy on rotors, but the pads wear quickly compared to other track pads. They are not really dual purpose and the Hawk Blues are definitely no good for any street use.

Some tracks do work fine with the front sway bar on. With turbo lag (even a little) you may not benefit from disconnecting it like has been suggested earlier. Gentle trottle at mid turn is OK with the front bar especially on wider radius turns. Aggressive trottle at mid turn and tight turns can shift weight and lift the inside tire making the front bar less helpful. I would suggest leaving it on the first track day because that is what you are used to.
2013-04-29 06:14:04
#38
@eggman: You may want to check out a thread I made in the road racing section regarding preparing a car for road course. Decent amount of info in there. It was my first track day:

http://www.sr20-forum.com/road-racing/58928-preparing-street-turbo-car-road-course.html

Taking my car on a road course is one of the funnest things I've done w/my car and I think I'm now hooked! Going again in a week and a half

-G
2013-04-29 11:50:04
#39
I ordered a set of Raybestos ST-47's for this year. I might have trouble modulating these with street tires, since they're an all out race pad. I thought about going with the Blues, but they're so hard on rotors and wheel finish....
2013-04-29 12:40:20
#40
Originally Posted by hammerin
I ordered a set of Raybestos ST-47's for this year. I might have trouble modulating these with street tires, since they're an all out race pad. I thought about going with the Blues, but they're so hard on rotors and wheel finish....



LOL! If this is what you are worried about, you are going in the wrong direction as far as pad choice is concerned............

-----------------------------------------------------------

"For those seeking pad upgrade that will give them more friction, and ability to deeply outbrake the "usual suspects," the super-agressive Raybestos ST41 and ST47 compounds dominate. Raybestos racing pads are available for applications ranging from pro-level sportscar, to vintage touring car and low-buck road racer."

------------------------------------------------------------

It's almost as if there is an echo over here and no one read any of my posts apart from the OP.............

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