Thread: Track brakes thread

Ohh and shout out to @BenFenner too as he may also know a thing or two

I've been lurking, I'll jump in if I feel the need.
If this thread were in the Road Racing section I think we'd be having a different discussion over there. And different again if it were in the Auto-X section.

Well,Ben.I posted here because more member are likely to read it than in the roadracing or autocross sections.

And how would the discussion be different there?? please explain.It seems like some experienced trackday drivers have found this thread somehow...go figure? LOL
I am sure it helped by using the @ mention,too.haha

Please feel free to add any opinions about the brakes that you may have to offer.Just pretend it is in the section you want it in if it makes you feel more comfortable.

so you think ceramic rears instead of semi metallic is a better option on the rear?

This is something I found...but seems kinda contradicting

While semi-metallic pads contain steel fibers, ceramic pads score better by using copper fiber strands working inside ceramic compounds. Copper is a better metal as compared to steel when it comes to heat fading. And, this means that the brakes recover faster when the car is stopped. The metal also ensures that there is lesser wear on the brake rotor and the amount of dust produced is also less. And, ceramic compounds especially help in dampening the noise to emit only inaudible sound frequencies.

In the case of high performance vehicles such as racing cars, semi-metallic and metallic braking pads are the most widely used pads. However, these pads cannot be used for street vehicles, because they are designed only for high temperature performance. The metallic pads when used in lower temperatures, would have weaker braking power, more wear to the brake rotor and would produce much more noise. In the case of semi-metallic pads, carbon fiber is used along with composite materials for changing the optimal levels of friction, wear and heat. In addition, these braking pads are not going to perform properly in cold temperatures.

The two most widely used braking pads on the market are the ceramic and semi-metallic pads. The heat transfer rate of semi-metallic pads is better and this reduces rotor warping due to overheating. In addition, these pads are durable and the rate of wearing is slower. Last but not the least, semi-metallic pads don't cost much. The ceramic pads are softer and this means that there is minimal wear on the brake rotor. And, the smoothness of the material produces lesser amount of friction, and this is helpful especially when the vehicle is being regularly stopped.

Ceramic, although a little more expensive, are typically made of better quality pad material than the equivalent organic in terms of stock stuff. They also are little longer lasting, produce somewhat less dust and have a bit better coefficient of friction (stopping power). There are reports that they are more destructive to rotors (which I do not full agree with especially with the new compounds), but since we are talking about the rear brakes, they do not see nearly as much work as the front, so I think that argument is close to being null and void IMHO.

Below is a good summary of each type of pad

Akebono's advanced ProAC Ceramic Disc Pads for the rear. Why you ask? They're $9 a set @ Tirerack right now...lol. Honestly, the thing to worry about for the rears is how well it holds the car in the hotel parking lot when the parking brake is on. I have them on the SE-L. I like them.

Careful with the XP8's for the street. They'll work, but they have a tendency to squeal on light braking. It's really annoying in traffic.

Probably not much to contribute since much has been said already. I'm running the Hawk Blues in front with the Akebono ceramics in the rear, both on slotted discs. The fronts will do just fine with blanks the next go round when they are done. Got a good price on the slotted fronts & rears so I jumped on them at the time. ATE Super Blue brake fluid working great so far, brake ducts work awesome when slowing down from high speed into those tight turns. Only drive the track car to and from the event as well as the occasional jaunt to the store or test drive. Blues are brutal on rotors when pushed hard but for the money, pedal feel and results they work awesome. Had the HP+ pads during the early HPDE days and they worked well but the faster you go the more brake pad (and tire) you need. Each track day is a test & tune day so finding the right combination that works on and off the track is always a juggling act. My setup squeals somewhat during daily drives and brake dust on black rims is no biggie but she stops hard and fast when needed. The slots add a bit of extra bite which is real nice but at least for the fronts the blanks should help a bit in better modulation for that initial pedal feel...

So what about having good pads on the back,too?
Doesn't that help save the fronts a little ,maybe balance it out some....or does it make the car lock the rears prematurely?

On a FWD street car without adjustable brake bias? Yes.

You are correct in your statements to a certain extent, but don't overthink things .

K.I.S.S