Thread: Koni 8611-race question (custom housings and fitment question). Help

Sorry I only know True Choice for Koni.

Thanks for all the responses folks!

I think I figured out which route I am going to take and it involves both a new set of Konis as well as sending these out to be rebuilt and revalved to higher spring rates while the other set is installed. The DA will end up being the track setup for when bigger spring rates are needed (as these cars benefit GREATLY from massive rates!)

Also, just for reference, I used shock spring rate calculation as well as the Suspension thread to figure out my street spring rate

I will update once everything shakes out in the next week or 2

Times a million.

A few updates for the masses

Well, I will let the pictures speak for themselves..........but as you can tell, somehow I BROKE the threaded portion of the shock shaft

Any theories as to how this occurred to prevent this from happening again in the future?? I have a feeling the inner bearing setup (the adapter between the 14mm shaft and the inner bearing of the GC camber plate) was not correct. IN all my years, I do not think I have seen such a fracture!

P.S All new hardware WILL be bough for the next setup!

I figured this may help someone

I ended up making my own Gland Nut Tool

Note: There are 4 holes total in my gland nut



- I taped 2 of the 4 holes with a 8-32 tap.
- I retrieved a 2-3 foot section of flat steel and drilled three holes (2 for the screw mounts and 1 for where the shaft of the shock rod goes through)
NOTE: You need at minimum TWO (2) drilled holes for the rod to attach to or you will not have enough leverage!
- I used a 8-32 3/4" phillips head screw and several washers to secure the flat steel to the gland nut
- at this point, if the nut is stuck on (like mine was) you can use a hammer at the far edge of the "tool" in order to knock it loose
- Profit!

The tool is 30-50 bucks and I just simply did not feel like buying it LOL! Sometimes lazy DOES pay off!

WTF broken threaded section on shaft. Did you hear it snap?

Geeezz Nate, took you long enough to respond

But to be totally honest, NO, I did not hear it snap! I have simply never seen a break like this...............which is leading me to believe there was something else going on with the shaft-inside-the-bearing situation. It'as almost as if a side thrust and torque load is what broke the shaft via the break I see.

Any theories Nate??

P.S The bitch is still leaking fluid LOL!

Seems like you run a lot of spring 600lb if I'm reading correctly. Is the car caged? A bud of mine @veilside180sx who used to build B13-15 and S13/14 suspensions always told me you don't want more than 400 on a B13 and 450 or so on a B14 if you are going to drive it on the street and not throw in a cage and/or some serious chassis stiffening... He used to run 450/400 on his Koni/GC setup on the street for years.

anyway my point is that you start to run into the potential for this type of failure when you run that much spring.

this is his track car, his DD is a comfy P11!

Looks like a typical tensile failure to me. That would be from overtightening....

The shoulder is mushrooming next to it too. I want to say it broke in the bearing, but it should have trashed the adjuster if it was broken..... It may have been holding on barely and breaking the nuts loose was the final thread .


Also this isn't a "too much spring rate" failure. IMHO should double check stroke length and make sure not internally bottoming out.