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Thread: Popping sound when turning wheel, new suspension

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Posts: 31-40 of 44
2013-03-07 16:20:49
#31
Between nissanpartzone.com, alldatadiy.com, and greg's site, I'm getting a list together...

54329-16A00 Strut (Thrust?) Bearing (Between Upper Seat and Mount Bracket)
54329-50Y00 Strut Gasket (Between mount and car body)
54322-0M000 Strut Mount Bracket (with studs)
55036-50A00 New Lower Spring Pad (Between spring and lower seat)
55040-D0100 New Upper Spring Pad (Between spring and upper seat)

All in all a bit over $100 plus shipping... here we go.
2013-03-07 16:33:11
#32
I found this. Can't unpack the .RAR file. Stupid OsX My FSM got all mixed up awhile back. sigh...

http://www.sr20-forum.com/sentra-se-r/45623-nissan-sentra-nx-coupe-b13-usdm-fsm-1993-a.html
2013-03-07 16:57:38
#33
I dunno how fast you wana do it, but becuz i took everything (but the springs and struts) off a 99 in the junk i might end up with extra parts. I have to double check and see whats still good currently on the car. I know i wont have those plastic bearing tho cuz ones busted apart, so i have 1 good one (but i dont know the condition of the current ones on the car just yet). Might have extra of those rubber spring gaskets tho. I prob wont be getting to it for another week or 2, with St Pats coming up im gonna be far to drunk to do any work on that weekend
2013-03-07 17:21:25
#34
I appreciate it, but I think I'm just gonna order new. I need this done before IFO on the 24th of this month anyway.
2013-03-08 17:35:58
#35
This link may help too...pricing is probably outdated though.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/information-library/30-b13-suspension-diagram-part-numbers.html
2013-03-08 18:09:30
#36
I've been searching McMaster Carr for thrust bearing replacements but it appears I would need a CAD drawing to make a proper choice...anyone know if this is available anywhere?
2013-03-17 22:39:47
#37
i know you said you checked the ball joint but did you replace it by pressing a new one in or did you replace the control arm. From my experience our control arms arnt really ment to have new ones pushed in. ive had ball joints fall through after i pushed the old one out. it spreads the metal and when you put the new one in its not as tight and will move around.. i ended up welding it together till i got brand new control arms...
2013-03-18 14:36:18
#38
No, I didn't get new control arms. The idea of replacing the whole thing for a ball joint is news to me. Anyone else ever experience this? They seem to be holding up okay, and I know that I'm missing some parts in the whole suspension setup under there.

I ordered the parts from Greg, and he got them to me as quick as he could (that guy is awesome!). I'll be putting them all on today after work, hopefully.

One other thing... what is the most popular method for adding camber adjustment for our cars? The standard KYB mounts and mount brackets don't allow for it, from what I can tell. Any thoughts on this?
2013-03-18 14:50:14
#39
I recently replaced a ball joint when my wheel bearing went bad. I couldnt get the nut off the old one so I ended up grinding it off. Took me like 10mins of heating with a torch and another 10 of hammering with my BFH to get the ball joint to come out. New one pushed in a lot easier but was tight enough to where I couldnt just push it out. So far around 2k miles on it and no issues....if i'm not mistaken, isn't that what the C Clip is for? To help secure the BJ in there?
2013-03-18 14:54:59
#40
Yeah, but I think that's a last resort type of thing. If it's to the point that the clip is doing any work at all, you've got issues. I pressed mine out and back in without a problem.
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