Thread: P11 Auto-X Setup help

Got a clean sweep win this weekend winning the normal timed runs and the final battle run which was a short 30+second layout.
To compensate for the snap over steer, I raised the rear slightly and the front a bit more higher than the rear so more weight is on the rears tires when braking. I also set the rear dampers to about 1/3 stiff and the front full stiff and the rear tires pressure to 32psi cold.

It seemed to work out real good as the car was much more stable while braking, i still felt a slight slip but only slight. My time was right up there with the guys running r888 tires and in the last battle run I was the fastest.

Will be posting up a video of the runs, did not get a chance to snap much pictures but here is a few pics of the machine chillin, waiting to have some dinner.

Congrats, sir. Thanks for updating!

No problem, maybe it may help someone one of these days. can't wait to get a fresh set of hankooks on the rears as I see my Bridgstones are cracking and we looked up the mnufacture date and was made in 08. Then i can dial back in some of the rotation. i might just raise up the rear to see how that is as oppose to lowering the front. Then i should be able to tweak from there with sway bar, dampening and tire pressure.

I found that the rear tire pressure helps to dial in that rotation without going too soft on the suspension side(less roll). soft pressure(around 32psi) gave less rotation and higher(around 36-38) gave more.

i will have to play around again once I get the hankooks on the rears. If all goes well for these last couple of events i might switch to the z214 soft compound for next year since it is doing so well with the street tires.

Any advice on tires? guys around here use r888 but i hear the hankook z214 are better. Main requirement would have to be good grip from slightly cold. Our temps all year round are normally in the 80s and 70s during winter. also i dont see 255 size for the z214 but 245/40. Obviously i need the straight line traction as well. will be an "R" compund provide better if not equal traction?

Here is the Vid:

I have very good experiences with R888, very good tire.

Are you already running the modified upper arms? How much more camber you gained?

R-compound tires will generally provide more traction than most if not all street compound auto-x based tires. You can also get them in many more compound choices as well, so you can tailor it to your temperature rating and when you want them to operate at their prime. However, they simply do not last as long and if you end up going with something like a Hoosier, if you flat spot them even the slightest, you just wasted almost $1000 USD on tires

Proper tires in the clear are the Nitto NT01 and the Yokohama A048 (the Japanese time attackers love this tire) in addition to the R888s. I have a feeling with the full slick profile, the Hankook Z214 will be better than the R888s for ultimate grip. Anything else outside of this I am not too certain about.

Thanks,guys. I have not went to get an alignment so I honestly do not know. I basically cut off 12mm on each, That does not mean that when I weld it together that i did it prefect. I will get some sort of crash bolt type setup or like the SPC camber kit for the 250z but just a longer bolt just to dial it in evenly.

It helped a ton, Before, the outside of the front tires would roll and the surface would be rough which ment the outside was overworked. Now I have none and the temps on the outside is about the same. I try to do the alignment myself to dial in toe-out for the race and zero it back for daily duty. I use the toeplates and measuring tape method. I am getting very good at it now to be honest.

One of these days I will go to get aligned to zero out oe so when I do toe out it is more accurate. Once I do I will post my findings on camber.

I would like to try out the hankooks since I am doing so well with their street tire. Lock ups dont really happen with my setup with the oversized tires. Only managed to lock them up on the last event because I had a problem with my the vacuum line to the booster and the pedal got super stiff and had to ram the pedal to the floor. and locked up the brakes, but did not feel a flat spot after.

Made some top hats with offset spherical bearingto clear the 3rd member.

I cant say if i feel a difference or it is just because I have not driving my car for over 2 weeks and was driving a stock b14 sedan with dead shocks and now my car feels amazing afterwards.
But, if my memory serves me well, I does feel better on the bumpy surface. i did not do this mod for more pferformance gain but more to have the shock rod free to move about since it is no more at an angle. It works great and moves freely because before it was a pain to try and get the bottom of the shoc to line up with the 3rd member mounts. I will be replacing the rubber tein bushings on the bottom with shperical bearings as well soon, did not have enough time to do it this time around.