Thread: P11 Auto-X Setup help

Oh sweet, great idea

All buttoned up on the right side and showing the difference in the angles vs the oem unit at full droop.

I have got a bit of a problem though, the lock nut that I have is too tall to fit between the axle, I am thinking about turning the bolt around so it faces down instead and the nut will be at the bottom. this would allow me to use the lock nut and I should be able to add/remove spacers a bit easier. What do you all think?



On a side note also made this while inspecting my oil pan for pieces of metal, My rocker arms broke and scattered a few pieces around. Didn't find much and the screen in the pick up is in tack so should catch any big piece.

That's an awesome difference, you're making me want to do the same!



That's an interesting situation and I had to think about it too.
Downsides:
- Axle removal required if something is wrong with the bolt.
- If we had springs attached to the LCA, I would be concerned about spring pressure ripping the nut out (see older Tacoma ball joint failures), but I think this would be a problem even with the bolt facing up.

Upside:
- Easier removal to replace spacers (easily adjustable roll center basically).
- Bolt is heavier, so it's better to have it face down, because it will have less weight to constantly be pulled down and wiggle out. This way the bolt weight is supported by knuckle, I personally try to make bolts point down, and have the nut screw up.

Taking out the axle is the biggest downside to me. But again not that big of a deal, axle can come out fairly easy. Even a lock washer would be too close to work as I tried that too. Unless I drill the nut and bolt to put a pin through?

That's not a bad idea too. I think that's what the guy who built my B15's roll center kit did too actually, just drilled the hole for cotter pins.

I will see how it goes. Drilling through grade 8 hardware is not easy. I got some spare bolts that I can test. I think I may just invert the bolt. I can then out the lock nut and lock washer without any issues.

So car is on the ground and driving, valve replaced and this made a huge difference. I wish I had stickier tires, these r888 are old and in need of replacing. Steering is a bit heavier but might be due to toe but it corners really flat.
Toe was off and had excessive toe in(was expecting that toe needed to be adjusted) but I was trying to get 0 toe( using string method for quick adjustment) and the toe is maxed(on the left side) and still has slight toe in. after a drive around the right side needs a bit more toe out which I believe I have some still to go.

I am going to try and level the car today and measure camber as I think the arms are uneven lengths. may have to take measurements from the brake disc to the end of the control arm to see if it is off. but initial feel is very good, just need to dial in alignment.

I ran into the same issue with maxing out the toe adjustment too (with the lowered UCA mount and cusco UCA's). I've been thinking of how to help that (maybe smaller jam nut, or cutting the tie rods).

The pic is not working btw.

I will have to Extend the control arms out now to at least get some toe out as steering is not as responsive as before. Camber is -1 as well which is kind of odd, not sure if I measured the stock control arms correctly. Going to extend them tonight and see the difference.

Did you get around to extending the arms? I'm curious how much camber is to be gained by extended them out say 1/4" or so. Also curious on SAI angle too, I'm already at 17* personally, so you might be even higher.