Thread: P11 Auto-X Setup help

Thanks @cayman_primera, I'll see about finding more reinforcement points myself then.


@Kyle, yup that's what makes Autocross a little harder to then other racing sports, you never know the track layout until the day of the race and it changes daily.

I disagree with autocross being more difficult, just a different way of thinking to achieve a victory. Same things when you go from road racing into a drag racing car. Makes it a little more difficult than being used to one when making a transition.

I will say it is easier to succeed at learning your car and becoming a master of your chassis before making changes that are not justified.

Thanks guys, It is true Kyle, an experienced driver who master their car is a weapon in itself. A lot of the new comers always start to talk about doing this and that before trying to improve their driving with the car. I always ask them what they think they need to do with their car and normally they dont have a clue.

I am actually looking at some spacers for the LCA like the B15 use for anti lift and dive. If it works then that should help a lot as I get a bit of dive which unloads the rear so I cannot brake deep into the turns. So i guess next up is the spacers and then the roll centre correction ball joints.

Stay tuned

I bought a 12x12" 10mm aluminum plate and used part of it to make those spacers for my old B15. I'm planning on doing the same for the P11, especially since she's been wheel hoping a lot more lately. It should be pretty simple, just need 4 squares with holes drilled really.

Similar to the GTiR kit:

@cayman_primera if you haven't built an ALK you need to do so right of way, it made a HUGE difference for me.



More pictures

Have you taken any tire temps since you did the panhard bar? Even with Cusco UCA's, rear swaybar, and ALK I'm still rolling the front tires a good bit and the outside of the tire is about 10*F warmer then center or inside. I'm wondering if panhard bar helped reduce that (by reducing the rear roll center) for you, otherwise I might up my front springs to 10k's too.

@Vadim, I have not taken any tire temps with a probe or temp. gun but just by touch it feels fairly even and the middle is normally the warmest. I did do the ALK spacer and it did improve, I only did the 10mm and I want to step it up to 15mm now. What was the size and pitch of the bolt used for the rear mount?

The rear panhard bra helps a lot, sometimes too much and is on the edge if the rear is slightly higher than the front, lowering the rear helps and it still changes direction just as quick and rotation is still there on command. I think the front Roll Centre is what hurts the primeras/g20 and stiffer springs help but changing the geometry with roll centre adjusters or like shifting the UCA rear mounting point will give you a better platform to work with in regards to spring rate.

The best part about the way I mounted my panhard bar is I can still go back to the SRL if needed.

I'm planning on trying out 20mm ALK, pitch is 14mm x 1.5mm fine pitch. P11's front motion ratios are 0.96:1, so front wheel rates will be about 1k less then spring rates at say 8kg/mm, I think that's why stiffer springs helped you. Thing is, the body roll should help with camber gain, but I guess the lazy camber curve is not helping.

I'm still planning on doing a panhard bar, well a lowered roll center one at least. I'm still rolling the outside tire, so need more camber.

I have a bit more camber than you as well, my UCA were cut around 15mm shorter than stock. I am going to do the UCA rear mount mod you did with stock arms as I could use a bit more traction during braking mainly. the 600lb springs does a number on the dampers, my teins are gone and need replacing, the rears are ok just because it is light back there. But ye they do settle the car and help a lot with body roll although the front dives in on long sweepers. I plan on getting some adjustable 300zx front dampers and install some coilover sleeves on them to be on the cheap side for now.

I'm planning on doing the camber curves of stock UCA's with factory and new mount points while replacing some shock stuff. I'm trying to see how much the shorter arms affect the curve, because I was thinking of doing -15-20mm arms myself.