Thread: P11 Auto-X Setup help

Lol, @Kyle. That would be great right. I will try my best to post updates. First event for the year is next weekend 23rd. Still need new front tires, hopefully they will last for another two events.

The only problem with mounting the sway bar that I have is that it is not long enough to mount on the frames. I would have to weld in some sort of support. but I did cut out my spare tire well so would be easier.

As mentioned, it's a recommendation, not a must. You seem like a tinkerer, so I figured I would throw it out there

oh don't worry, you got me thinking now. but since I just did this , I am going to try it out for a while. I want to eventually put in a panhard bar as well so I would rather do that and then figure out sway bar placement. But anything to make the rear sway bar more effective is welcome as I plan to run a square tire setup 255 all round so I would most likely need a bit more rotation at that point.

Panhard, up!


SRL can suck it.

lol, I am slowly getting the parts for it. The SRL does suck. at my ride height, my rear alignment is way off. It is over like 3/4" at least to on side. When I was installing the sway bar, I had to use an adjustable wrench to fit between the tire and the bar but the other side was fine. I was thinking of just drilling another hole and tacking a washer so I can align the rear at least until I convert.

too risky ya think? I feel it should work fine. and then my tires would be even too.

I actually wonder how much an independently attached swaybar would help vs just stiffening the actual beam. The beam itself works like a swaybar, thus stiffening it up is same as installing a thicker swaybar.

AutoSpeed - Anti-Roll Bars and Torsion Beam Rear Suspensions, Part 1

How do you propose to stiffen up the rear Torsion bar/Beam (reducing the twisting motion) and then when you do, how do you go about measuring stiffness and adjusting it (especially for varying surface grip levels, undulations, terrain, etc)?

Much much easier to adjust an anti-roll bar than to stiffen the rear beam itself or limiting how much the beam "twists" (which according to the article, you can go too far and both wheels act as one unit as compared to each acting independently). You still need each corner of the car to act somewhat independently (even though the rear wheels are connected by a giant piece of metal )

P.S Isn't adding the swaybar to the beam itself ala original mounting position in essence stiffening up the beam itself??

I think in the position the original poster has it, the swaybar is doing what you stated @Vadim

I think I saw somewhere where someone actually welded steel plate on the bottom of the beam which closes it up. but yea, not sure if doing that will work unless you can calculate the stiffness. If you go over, then you might just have to get another beam.

@Boostlee What it sounded like you were suggesting is having the swaybar be mounted on the body and leaving the other ends mounted by the trunk, which would stiffen the chassis but not work like a swaybar. Disregard this if I understood your wrong.

Most beam swaybars just stiffen the beam, which means it becomes more uniform. Going too stiff is bad too, your car starts doglegging in turns. Whiteline bar for this reason tries to attach the swaybar to the body of the car, but I still wonder if that's all that efficient at the end of the day too. Kojima's setup does seem like the best way to go, it keeps the beam from being overly stiffened, and since it's mounted on each end, it somewhat emulates how the IRS setup usually is (swaybar is mounted on the control arm.)

@cayman_primera I believe 2JR guys did that, it does further stiffen the beam up, but our beam is a twisting beam, thus doing that you loose your wheel's ability to work independently. Which if you have a 100% track car, that's not a big concern because most tracks are smooth roads, it's an issue for street cars though.