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Thread: Anti-Bump Steer Kit Caused More Bump Steer

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Posts: 1-10 of 24
2012-10-17 03:44:03
#1
Anti-Bump Steer Kit Caused More Bump Steer
My B15 came with a bump steer tie rod set, at first I had it flipped like stock tie rods are. The car didn't seem to bump steer, but then again I never really experienced what bump steer is so I decided to flip them and use the kit like it was made to be used.




Flipped


Full weight on the wheels, steering linkage is fairly straight:


I didn't have a chance to do the alignment, obviously it didn't ride well. Bump steered, and followed the road crevices, All signs of too much toe out. I realigned the toe, got it as close to 0 toe as I could with limited light time I had. Went for a spin still bump steers badly and is very unstable.

When raising the front wheels, I gain a lot of front toe out. When the tie rod was in stock position toe didn't change from when car was raised to being lowered (camber did though). I'm at a loss on what it could be, something doesn't seem right.

Moto IQ article

To correct the bumpsteer, we eliminated the tie rod on the steering linkage and replaced it with another spherical bearing. We then drilled out the taper on the steering spindle arm and bolted the bearing directly to the spindle arm on the opposite side as stock. This puts the steering linkage much close to being in line with the lower control arm in its new position. Then we used shims to adjust the steering linkages position until we were able to get rid of much of the bumpsteer. These changes should give us much more front bite and reduce body roll under hard cornering.
Last edited by Vadim on 2012-10-17 at 23-39-08.
2012-10-17 12:11:24
#2
I'm pretty sure if your car isn't lowered more than an inch below stock, a bump steer kit will actually add bump steer. So, how much lower is the car over stock? Another check is to look at the tie rod angles when the car is resting on level ground. They should be parallel to the ground's plane....at least that's my understanding of how they should work/look.


It could also be that your alignment isn't were it wants to be to minimize bump steer. Sometimes the fastest settings aren't always the most pleasant for casual driving.
Last edited by hammerin hank on 2012-10-17 at 12-22-29.
2012-10-17 13:10:09
#3
I did try to lower it minimally, it's around ~1" lower. It's hard for me to know for sure because I'm on coilovers, on different tires, with fender lips bent and extended out. Thus it's hard to compare to the FSM wheel arch heights .

One thing I did notice is my tie rod was somewhat parallel with the lower control arm itself. Now the tie rod is parallel with the ground. Now I'm thinking unless I lower the control arm, bump steer will still remain.
2012-10-21 02:56:06
#4
Originally Posted by Vadim
with fender lips bent and extended out. Thus it's hard to compare to the FSM wheel arch heights .


This is why you always measure at the rocker itself and not the wheel opening.
2012-10-21 03:13:49
#5
@Vadim update, please!
2012-10-21 04:23:24
#6
Ur tie rod should be parallel to the control arm so they swing in the same arches.
2012-10-21 06:10:21
#7
dude,when you flip the bump steer rack ends around,you will have to re-do your toe set on your wheel alignment.that probably why your not getting the right result. i'd guess it's now toeing out a bit too much.

if your rack ends were pretty much straight in line before,then turning them around the right way should help(returning the angle of the rack ends to closer to stock),but there are lots of variables. the only way to know for sure is to get a switched on suspension shop to measure it (not cheap)...
2012-10-22 23:06:55
#8
Alright finally decided to flip them back to stock location. When I raised the car and removed the wheels, I noticed that when the suspension was fully decompressed the tie rods where pointing down. What this means is, while driving over bumps the suspension would compress on one side and raise on the other side, causing the tie rod to go underground so to speak. This caused massive toe out 1/4-1/2" for that wheel thus it would pull in that direction like a madman.

With tie rods in stock locations my alignment was at about 1/32's toe out. When I flipped them my full weight alignment was 1/2" toe out, so I dialed it in to about 0 toe, when I flipped them back to stock locations it's at about 3/16" toe out. Little much for daily driving but it handles great again, I'll get it down to 1/8" toe out later, for now P11 needs the attention.

Originally Posted by blackb13se-r
Ur tie rod should be parallel to the control arm so they swing in the same arches.


I agree with this but it seems like the people that lower there car more then 1.5" still benefit from the bump steer kit, without lowering the control arm itself.

Originally Posted by sss4me
dude,when you flip the bump steer rack ends around,you will have to re-do your toe set on your wheel alignment.that probably why your not getting the right result. i'd guess it's now toeing out a bit too much.

if your rack ends were pretty much straight in line before,then turning them around the right way should help(returning the angle of the rack ends to closer to stock),but there are lots of variables. the only way to know for sure is to get a switched on suspension shop to measure it (not cheap)...


I drove the car without redoing the alignment the first day (didn't have time got too dark), but the next day I redid the alignment and it still was bad. When I would jack up the car the wheels would toe out like madman.
2012-10-23 00:29:08
#9
I am making one, and I got you guys convered...
2013-01-25 05:57:23
#10
Originally Posted by Vadim
When I raised the car and removed the wheels, I noticed that when the suspension was fully decompressed the tie rods where pointing down. What this means is, while driving over bumps the suspension would compress on one side and raise on the other side, causing the tie rod to go underground so to speak. This caused massive toe out 1/4-1/2" for that wheel thus it would pull in that direction like a madman.


I'm having the pretty much the same issue word-for-word with my bump-steer kit on my b13 with Hyperco Gen-II's. Looking for some sort of resolution before swapping back to factory rod-ends.
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